House Decoder: what's likely inside a house built in your year

Safe first steps

Press the test button on each alarm once a month. Write down the date on each one. Replace battery-only alarms that are 10 or more years old or have no date. Some fire departments put in battery alarms for free. Call their non-emergency line to ask. Florida: if certain remodel work adds or replaces a battery-only smoke alarm, state law says it generally must have a sealed battery that lasts at least 10 years. Some combo, wireless-linked, and monitored alarms are exempt.

Who to call

A licensed electrician for hardwired or linked alarms. Your local fire department's non-emergency line for help with battery alarms.

Ask your inspector

“What date is printed on each smoke alarm, and is there a working alarm in each bedroom, outside each sleeping area, and on every level?”

How to spot it

Look on the back or side of each smoke alarm for the date it was made. If you can't see it without taking down a wired alarm, ask your inspector. An alarm that is 10 or more years old needs replacing. So does one with no date. You should have an alarm inside each bedroom, outside each sleeping area, and on every level.

Why it matters

The sensors in smoke alarms wear out. An old alarm may be slow to warn you of a fire. NFPA and the U.S. Fire Administration say to replace the whole alarm every 10 years. Replace it sooner if it gives an end-of-life warning. Linked alarms protect best. When one sounds, they all sound.

When this applies

Every home. This goes by the date printed on each alarm, not the year the house was built. Homes built or last updated 10 or more years ago may still have their original alarms.

Related guides: Smoke and CO Alarms: Check Placement, Test, and Age

Sources: Smoke alarms (U.S. Fire Administration (FEMA)); Educational Messages Desk Reference, 2026 edition (sections 1.3.4-1.3.6, 1.5.1-1.5.4) (National Fire Protection Association (NFPA)); Florida Statutes s. 553.883, Smoke alarms in one-family and two-family dwellings and townhomes (The Florida Senate)

Safe first steps

If your home has gas, oil, or propane appliances, a fireplace, or an attached garage, put in CO alarms. NFPA says to place them in each room where someone sleeps, outside each sleeping area, and on every level. You can add battery or plug-in alarms yourself. Hardwired alarms should be put in by an electrician. Test them once a month. Replace each one by its date, or when it gives an end-of-life signal. Have gas appliances, heating equipment, and chimneys inspected every year. If a CO alarm sounds, get everyone outside to fresh air. Then call 911.

Who to call

911 if a CO alarm sounds. A licensed HVAC or gas appliance technician for yearly checks. A chimney professional if you have a fireplace. A licensed electrician for hardwired alarms.

Ask your inspector

“Is there a CO alarm outside each sleeping area and on every level, and what date is on each one?”

How to spot it

Look near the bedrooms for an alarm marked CO or Carbon Monoxide. Some are combined with a smoke alarm. Check the back for the date it was made or a replace-by date. Some models chirp or show END when worn out, even with a new battery. Check the manual for your model.

Why it matters

CO comes from things that burn fuel, like furnaces, water heaters, stoves, fireplaces, and cars. Each year, more than 200 people in the U.S. die from CO poisoning from consumer products. That count does not include fires. The sensors in CO alarms wear out. One major maker, Kidde, says its alarms last 7 to 10 years, depending on the model.

When this applies

Any home with gas, oil, or propane appliances, a fireplace, or an attached garage. It goes by each alarm's date, not the house's age. In Florida, homes and additions built on or after July 1, 2008 with these features must have a CO alarm within 10 feet of each bedroom. Older Florida homes may have none.

Related guides: Smoke and CO Alarms: Check Placement, Test, and Age

Sources: Educational Messages Desk Reference, 2026 edition (sections 3.4.2, 3.4.4, 3.5.1, 3.6.1, 3.7.2) (National Fire Protection Association (NFPA)); Carbon Monoxide Information Center (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Carbon monoxide (U.S. Fire Administration (FEMA)); Carbon monoxide alarm replacement (Kidde (alarm manufacturer)); Smoke alarms (hardwired alarms installed by qualified electricians) (U.S. Fire Administration (FEMA)); Florida Statutes s. 553.885, Carbon monoxide alarm required (The Florida Senate)

Safe first steps

Test the reverse feature once a month. Lay a 2x4 board flat on the floor in the door's path. Close the door. It should reverse when it hits the board. If it doesn't, stop using the opener until it is adjusted, repaired, or replaced. Mount the wall button high, out of children's reach. Keep remotes away from kids.

Who to call

A garage door service professional.

Ask your inspector

“What year was the garage door opener made, and does the door reverse when it hits a 2x4 laid on the floor?”

How to spot it

Look near the floor on each side of the door. Most openers have two small sensors facing each other. These are called electric eyes. They should be about 4 to 6 inches off the floor. Some openers use a sensor strip on the door's bottom edge instead. The motor unit on the ceiling has a label that may show the month and year it was made. Watch the door close. It should reverse if something is in its path.

Why it matters

A garage door that does not reverse can trap and kill a child. A 2011 CPSC safety sheet counted about 73 children killed this way since March 1982. They were ages 2 to 14. CPSC says openers that don't reverse should be repaired or replaced.

When this applies

Any home with an automatic garage door opener. This goes by the opener's age, not the house's. CPSC required reversing systems on openers made after January 1, 1991. Openers made on or after January 1, 1993 must also have extra protection, like electric eyes. Any opener can stop reversing if it is out of adjustment.

Sources: 16 CFR Part 1211, Safety Standard for Automatic Residential Garage Door Operators (eCFR (U.S. Government Publishing Office)); Non-Reversing Automatic Garage Door Openers Are a Hazard (Pub. 523, rev. 04/2011) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission)

Safe first steps

Teach children to stay away from drains. If a cover is broken, loose, or missing, close the pool or spa until it's fixed. Find each cover's marked life and the year it was put in. Have a pool professional check the covers at least once a year.

Who to call

A licensed pool contractor or pool service professional.

Ask your inspector

“Are the pool and spa drain covers domed, uncracked, and firmly attached, and are they still within the life marked on them?”

How to spot it

Look at the drains on the floor of the pool or spa. Older covers are flat. Newer, safer covers are curved or domed. That shape keeps a body from fully blocking them. Many covers are marked "Life: X Years." That tells how many years the cover can stay in use. Check for covers that are cracked, loose, or missing.

Why it matters

A blocked drain can pull with strong suction. It can trap hair or a body part and hold a child or adult underwater. This is called entrapment. Congress passed the Virginia Graeme Baker Pool and Spa Safety Act to prevent it. Since December 19, 2008, drain covers made or sold in the U.S. must meet a federal anti-entrapment standard.

When this applies

Any home with a pool or spa. Drain covers made or sold since December 19, 2008 must meet a federal standard. Home pools built before about 2009 may still have older flat covers. Covers also crack and wear out, so check them at any age.

Sources: 15 U.S.C. 8003, Swimming pool and spa drain cover standard (Office of the Law Revision Counsel, U.S. House of Representatives); The Terrain of Drains: What Makes Them Safer? (CPSC Pool Safely); Virginia Graeme Baker Pool and Spa Safety Act FAQ (CPSC Pool Safely)

Safe first steps

Test door alarms, gates, and self-closing doors. They should close and latch on their own. Fix any that don't. Move chairs, grills, and planters away from the fence so kids can't climb over. Ask your city or county which pool rules apply to your home. Some local rules are stricter than state law.

Who to call

A licensed pool or fence contractor. Your city or county building department for local pool rules.

Ask your inspector

“Which Florida pool safety feature does this home have, and does it still work as designed?”

How to spot it

Look for at least one of these five features. First, a fence or wall all the way around the pool. It must be at least 4 feet high with no gaps or footholds. Its gates open outward and close and latch on their own. The latch release must be on the pool side, out of a child's reach. A house wall counts only if no door or window in it opens to the pool. So a screen cage may not count by itself if house doors open into it. Second, an approved safety pool cover. Third, an alarm on every door and window that opens straight to the pool. Fourth, self-closing, self-latching doors to the pool, with the latch at least 54 inches up. Fifth, an in-pool alarm that sounds when someone enters the water. Alarms worn by a child do not count.

Why it matters

When Florida passed this law in 2000, lawmakers found that drowning was the leading cause of death for young children (under age 6) in the state. They said close adult watching is the key protection. A safety feature adds a backup layer when an adult looks away.

When this applies

Florida homes with a pool, spa, or hot tub. Since October 1, 2000, a new home pool must have at least one safety feature to pass final inspection. Pools finished before then were not covered by this state law. Any feature can break or be removed over time.

Sources: Florida Statutes s. 515.27, Residential swimming pool safety feature options; penalties (The Florida Senate); Florida Statutes s. 515.29, Residential swimming pool barrier requirements (The Florida Senate); Florida Statutes s. 515.25, Definitions (The Florida Senate); Florida Statutes s. 515.23, Legislative findings and intent (The Florida Senate); Florida Statutes s. 515.37, Exemptions (The Florida Senate); Laws of Florida ch. 2000-143 (Residential Swimming Pool Safety Act; effective October 1, 2000) (Florida Legislature)

Safe first steps

List any panels in these spots that have no mark. Keep kids from running or playing near low glass. Teach kids not to push or lean on glass doors. Have a glass pro look at any unmarked panels. Ask the pro whether a guard rail or new safety glass makes sense.

Who to call

A glass or glazing contractor.

Ask your inspector

“Is the glass in the doors, beside the doors, in the tub and shower enclosures, and in large low windows marked as safety glass?”

How to spot it

Check a corner of each glass panel in doors, sliding patio doors, and tub or shower doors. Also check glass beside doors and big windows near the floor. Safety glass usually has a small permanent mark in one corner. The mark is etched or stamped. It names the type of glass, like tempered, and a safety standard. No mark can mean plain glass, but not always. Some small or decorative panes are exempt.

Why it matters

Plain glass breaks into large, sharp pieces. People can be badly cut if they fall or walk into it. Safety glass, like tempered or laminated glass, is made to be less dangerous when it breaks.

When this applies

Federal rules say glass made after July 6, 1977 for doors and tub or shower enclosures must be safety glass. So homes built before about 1978 are most likely to have plain glass there. Glass beside doors and in big low windows follows local building codes, which began at different times. Later homes can have plain glass in those spots too. Older homes may have had glass replaced.

Sources: 16 CFR Part 1201, Safety Standard for Architectural Glazing Materials (eCFR (U.S. Government Publishing Office)); Safety Glazing tip sheet (quotes 2021 International Residential Code R308) (City of Aberdeen, WA)

Safe first steps

Clean the lint screen before or after every load. While the dryer runs, check that air comes out outside. NFPA says to clean lint out of the vent pipe every three months, or hire a dryer vent cleaning service. For a gas dryer, always hire the service. Have plastic or foil duct replaced with rigid or semi-rigid metal duct. Have a gas dryer inspected by a professional once a year.

Who to call

A dryer vent cleaning service or appliance technician. For a gas dryer, a qualified gas appliance technician.

Ask your inspector

“What is the dryer duct made of, is it crushed or kinked, and does the outside flap open when the dryer runs?”

How to spot it

Look behind the dryer without moving it. A white plastic hose or a thin foil accordion hose is the riskier kind. Rigid or semi-rigid metal duct is safer. Go outside while the dryer runs. You should feel air and see the vent flap open. If clothes are still damp after a normal cycle, the vent may be blocked.

Why it matters

Lint can block air flow and build up heat. That can start a fire. USFA estimated about 2,900 dryer fires a year in residential buildings from 2008 to 2010. Not cleaning was the top cause. Plastic and foil ducts trap lint more easily. They also crush and kink more easily.

When this applies

Any home with a clothes dryer. This does not depend on the house's age. It depends on the duct material and how often the vent is cleaned.

Related guides: Dryer Taking Too Long? Check the Safe Basics

Sources: Overheated Clothes Dryers Can Cause Fires (Pub. 5022) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Educational Messages Desk Reference, 2026 edition (sections 22.1-22.8) (National Fire Protection Association (NFPA)); Clothes Dryer Fires in Residential Buildings (2008-2010), Topical Fire Report Vol. 13, Issue 7 (U.S. Fire Administration (FEMA))

Safe first steps

Test the lowest level you live in. Use a test kit or a certified tester. Results are in pCi/L, a unit for how much radon is in the air. If a short-term test shows 4 pCi/L or higher, test again to be sure. EPA says fix the home if the level is 4 or higher. Consider fixing it if the level is between 2 and 4. Test before a big remodel, like finishing a basement. Test again after the work is done. Test again if you start living on a lower level. If there is a radon system, check its gauge and retest every two years. In Florida, sale and rental papers must include a radon notice. The notice is not a test.

Who to call

Your state radon office. In Florida, a radon tester or mitigation company certified by the Florida Department of Health.

Ask your inspector

“Has this home been tested for radon on the lowest lived-in level, and what was the result and date?”

How to spot it

You can't see or smell radon. Only a test tells you the level. Ask the seller for any past radon tests, with results and dates. A radon reduction system is usually a pipe running up the house with a fan. Most have a small gauge that shows if the system is working.

Why it matters

EPA estimates radon causes about 21,000 lung cancer deaths a year. It is the top cause of lung cancer in people who don't smoke. Any home can have a radon problem. That includes new and old homes, sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without a basement.

When this applies

Every home below the third floor, new or old, with or without a basement. EPA says its county radon zone map should not decide whether a home gets tested.

Sources: Health Risk of Radon (U.S. Environmental Protection Agency); EPA Map of Radon Zones (U.S. Environmental Protection Agency); A Citizen's Guide to Radon (2016) (U.S. Environmental Protection Agency); Florida Statutes s. 404.056 (radon notice and certification) (The Florida Senate)

Safe first steps

Ask a plumber, or your gas or electric company, to set the water heater to 120°F. Test at the faucet again a day later. Always test bath water before a child gets in. Stay with young children in the tub. Consider anti-scald devices for tub faucets and shower heads.

Who to call

A licensed plumber, or your gas or electric company. CPSC notes some electric companies do this at no charge.

Ask your inspector

“What is the hot water temperature at the faucet, and is the water heater set no higher than 120 degrees?”

How to spot it

Run hot water at a faucet for 3 minutes. Hold a cooking or candy thermometer in the stream. Keep your fingers out of the water. If it reads above 120°F, the water heater is set hotter than CPSC and NFPA advise.

Why it matters

CPSC says most tap water scald injuries and deaths happen to older adults and children under 5. At 150°F, most adults get a third-degree burn in 2 seconds. At 140°F it takes 6 seconds. At 130°F it takes 30 seconds. CPSC urges setting water heaters to 120°F.

When this applies

Any home with a water heater. This depends on how the heater is set, not the house's age.

Sources: Avoiding Tap Water Scalds (Pub. 5098) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Educational Messages Desk Reference, 2026 edition (sections 9.2.1-9.2.8) (National Fire Protection Association (NFPA))

Safe first steps

Check for the bracket. If it is missing, contact the range maker. Some will send one at no charge. Don't let kids climb or sit on the oven door. Don't put heavy items on an open oven door or push down on it.

Who to call

The range maker, to get a bracket. An appliance installer or technician to put it in.

Ask your inspector

“Is the range held in place by an anti-tip bracket?”

How to spot it

With a flashlight, look at the lower back corners of the range. Look for a metal bracket on the floor or wall that holds a back leg of the range. The owner's manual shows where the bracket goes.

Why it matters

A range can tip over if a child climbs on the open oven door. Hot food and pots can fall on the child too. From 2000 to 2008, CPSC got reports of 13 deaths from stoves, ovens, and ranges tipping over. Many were children younger than 10.

When this applies

Any home with a free-standing range. This goes by the range, not the house. Voluntary safety standards have called for makers to supply the bracket since 1991. A range of any age may never have had it installed.

Sources: Free-Standing Kitchen Ranges (voluntary standards) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Range Tipover Safety Alert (Pub. 5007, 03/2011) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission)

Safe first steps

Take photos from a distance and note where you saw it. Hold off on adding attic insulation. A U.S. Energy Department guide says to check for live knob-and-tube first. Ask a licensed electrician which circuits are still live. Get a written quote to replace them. If you are buying, get the quote before your inspection period ends. Call an insurance agent early, too.

Who to call

A licensed electrician to test the wiring and give a quote. A home inspector if you are buying. In Florida, a Florida-licensed inspector for the 4-point insurance inspection. Your insurance agent before you close or renew.

Ask your inspector

“Is any knob-and-tube wiring in this house still live, and which rooms does it feed?”

How to spot it

Look without touching. Shine a flashlight from the attic hatch or in an unfinished basement. Look for single wires run apart from each other. Small white ceramic knobs hold them off the wood. Where the wires pass through wood, they run through white ceramic tubes. The wires often have a dark cloth cover. Outlets with only two slots are another clue. Stay on safe footing. Do not move insulation to see better.

Why it matters

This wiring has no ground wire. Its old rubber insulation can get brittle and crack with age. It was built to cool off in open air. UL says bad splices (spots where wires join) can glow red-hot and go unnoticed. UL says insulation blown over this wiring can catch fire from those hot spots. Some insurers will not cover a home with live knob-and-tube.

Insurance note

Florida's Citizens requires a 4-point inspection when you apply to insure a home more than 20 years old. That is a check of the roof, wiring, plumbing, and heating and cooling. Its sample form asks the inspector to mark "Active knob and tube." Some insurers will not take a home with it. For example, a 2021 Farmers new-business guideline filed in Maine lists active knob and tube as ineligible. Rules differ by company and change over time, so ask your agent.

When this applies

InterNACHI says it was common from about 1880 to the 1940s. UL says it began to be phased out in the 1930s. We flag homes built through about 1950. Any older home that was never fully rewired can still have some.

Related guides: How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: Some History of Residential Wiring Practices in the U.S. (2006) (Underwriters Laboratories (David Dini, P.E.); copy hosted by City of Idaho Falls); Weatherization Job Aid 4-1: Prep Attic Floor (June 2024) (U.S. Department of Energy); 4-Point Inspection Form (Sample Form Insp4pt 03 25) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); Inspections (4-point requirement for properties more than 20 years old) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); Maine Homeowner New Business Underwriting Guidelines (Oct. 5, 2021) (Farmers Property and Casualty Insurance Co., filed with Maine Bureau of Insurance); Protect Your Family from Exposures to Asbestos-Contaminated Vermiculite Insulation (U.S. Environmental Protection Agency); Knob-and-Tube Wiring (InterNACHI)

Safe first steps

Take photos from a distance. Ask a licensed electrician how much of the house still has this cable. Ask whether the insulation is cracking where it shows. Get a written quote for a partial or full rewire. If you are buying, talk to your insurance agent before closing.

Who to call

A licensed electrician. A home inspector if you are buying. In Florida, a Florida-licensed inspector for the 4-point insurance inspection. Your insurance agent.

Ask your inspector

“Is this cloth-covered cable the old rubber-insulated kind, and is it cracking anywhere you can see?”

How to spot it

Look from the attic hatch, or in an unfinished basement or garage, for cables stapled to the wood. Old cable has a woven cloth cover. It is often dark brown, black, or tan, and may look frayed. Newer cable has a smooth plastic jacket, often with printing on it. Only look. Do not bend or pull a cable to check it. Stay on safe footing. This is a different system from knob-and-tube.

Why it matters

UL says the old rubber insulation got brittle and cracked with age. UL also says most of this cable had no ground wire before the early 1960s. An electrician can tell what the wires inside are made of. Wear varies from house to house, so a pro has to judge it. Your insurer may ask about it on an older home.

Insurance note

Florida's Citizens requires a 4-point inspection when you apply to insure a home more than 20 years old. That is a check of the roof, wiring, plumbing, and heating and cooling. Its sample form asks the inspector to mark "Cloth wiring." It also lists a "Cloth Jacket Rubber Insulated" wiring type. The form says this information is used to decide insurability. Rules differ by insurer, so ask your agent.

When this applies

UL says wire makers began moving from rubber to plastic wire insulation in the 1950s. UL says plastic began replacing the cloth jacket in the early 1960s. By about 1970, most cable had a plastic jacket. A cloth braid was still allowed until 1984, so a few later homes may have some.

Related guides: How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: Some History of Residential Wiring Practices in the U.S. (2006) (Underwriters Laboratories (David Dini, P.E.); copy hosted by City of Idaho Falls); 4-Point Inspection Form (Sample Form Insp4pt 03 25) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); Inspections (4-point requirement for properties more than 20 years old) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); Protect Your Family from Exposures to Asbestos-Contaminated Vermiculite Insulation (U.S. Environmental Protection Agency)

Safe first steps

Know CPSC's warning signs: hot cover plates, flickering lights, dead circuits, or a burning-plastic smell. If you notice one, stop using that outlet or switch. Call a licensed electrician. If you see smoke or fire, get out and call 911. CPSC recognizes three permanent repairs. One is a full copper rewire. Another is COPALUM crimp connectors. The third is AlumiConn connectors, if COPALUM isn't available. Only electricians trained by the maker may install COPALUM. CPSC noted in 2011 that AlumiConn had less long-term history. Keep all repair paperwork.

Who to call

A licensed electrician who does aluminum wiring repairs. For COPALUM, CPSC says the electrician must be trained by the maker. In Florida, a Florida-licensed inspector for the 4-point insurance inspection. Your insurance agent, to confirm which repairs your insurer accepts.

Ask your inspector

“Is there single-strand aluminum branch wiring here, and was every connection repaired with COPALUM or AlumiConn by a licensed electrician?”

How to spot it

Where cables show in an unfinished basement or garage, or from the attic hatch, read the printing on the cable jacket. Don't touch it. A flashlight held at a low angle helps. Aluminum cable is marked "AL" or "ALUMINUM" every few feet. If it also says "CU-clad" or "copper-clad," it is a different wire. CPSC's repair advice does not cover that kind. Can't tell? Have an electrician check. Ask the seller for any repair paperwork.

Why it matters

CPSC says the fire risk is at the connections. That means outlets, switches, junction boxes, and hard-wired appliances. A survey done for CPSC looked at homes built before 1972. It compared aluminum-wired homes with copper-wired homes. Aluminum homes were 55 times more likely to have an outlet connection reach "fire hazard conditions." CPSC means very hot cover screws, sparks, or charring. CPSC says these connections can fail with no warning first.

Insurance note

Citizens' FAQ (updated April 16, 2026) accepts multi-strand aluminum wiring. It does not accept single-strand (solid) aluminum branch wiring, with two exceptions. One: the home was fully rewired with copper. Two: every aluminum-to-copper connection was repaired with COPALUM or AlumiConn. Citizens says no other repair method is acceptable. Its 4-point form requires repair paperwork certified by a licensed electrician. Other insurers set their own rules.

When this applies

CPSC says aluminum branch wiring went in from 1965 to about the mid-1970s. That includes new homes, additions, and new circuits. UL says it was popular through the 1970s. A home built before 1965 is unlikely to have it, unless it got an addition or new circuits in those years.

Related guides: Aluminum Wiring: How to Spot It Safely and Which Repairs CPSC Recognizes · Warm, Buzzing, or Scorched Outlet? Stop Using It · How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: Repairing Aluminum Wiring, Publication 516 (June 2011) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Is aluminum branch wiring acceptable? (updated 04/16/2026) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); 4-Point Inspection Form (Sample Form Insp4pt 03 25) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); Some History of Residential Wiring Practices in the U.S. (2006) (Underwriters Laboratories (David Dini, P.E.); copy hosted by City of Idaho Falls)

Safe first steps

Don't use 3-to-2 plug adapters ("cheater" plugs). Don't cut the round pin off a plug. Ask a licensed electrician about fixes. One is adding a ground wire. Another is GFCI protection (a shock-protection outlet or breaker) with "No Equipment Ground" labels. CPSC says a GFCI can replace an old two-slot outlet with that label. Use fewer extension cords and power strips.

Who to call

A licensed electrician. A home inspector if you are buying. In Florida, a Florida-licensed inspector for the 4-point insurance inspection.

Ask your inspector

“Which outlets in this house have no working ground, and how would you fix each one?”

How to spot it

Look for outlets with only two slots and no round hole. In older homes, 3-hole outlets are sometimes put in with no ground wire behind them. A plug-in outlet tester from a hardware store can hint that the ground is missing. Some unsafe setups can fool it, so have an electrician confirm. A GFCI outlet with a "No Equipment Ground" label is a fix CPSC describes for old two-slot outlets. It still has no ground wire.

Why it matters

A ground wire gives stray electricity a safe path. Without one, a fault in a metal-cased appliance is more likely to shock someone. Before 1959, the code called for fewer outlets per room (UL). That can mean more extension cords. Florida's Citizens inspection form has a box for improper grounding.

Insurance note

Florida's Citizens requires a 4-point inspection when you apply to insure a home more than 20 years old. Its sample form has a box for "Improper grounding" under hazards. The form does not say whether two-slot outlets count. It does say agents may not submit homes with electrical hazards. Other insurers vary, so ask your agent and inspector how they treat ungrounded outlets.

When this applies

UL says the 1962 national code first required a ground on every circuit. We flag homes built through about 1965 because towns adopted codes at different times. Some older outlets may be grounded: UL says laundries needed them from 1947, and basements, garages, and outdoor spots from 1956. Any older home can also have 3-hole outlets added later with no ground.

Related guides: How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: Some History of Residential Wiring Practices in the U.S. (2006) (Underwriters Laboratories (David Dini, P.E.); copy hosted by City of Idaho Falls); GFCI Fact Sheet, Publication 099 (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); 4-Point Inspection Form (Sample Form Insp4pt 03 25) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); Inspections (4-point requirement for properties more than 20 years old) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); Reverse Polarity, Bootleg Ground and 3-Light Testers (forum thread, 2012) (InterNACHI forum)

Safe first steps

Test each GFCI outlet at least once a month and after a power outage (CPSC). If the lamp doesn't go off, or won't come back on, stop using that outlet. Call an electrician. If you have GFCI breakers, ask an electrician to show you how to test them. Use a portable plug-in GFCI with outdoor power tools and yard equipment. Ask an electrician to add GFCI protection where it is missing.

Who to call

A licensed electrician. A home inspector can note missing GFCIs if you are buying.

Ask your inspector

“Which wet-area outlets here lack GFCI protection, and did any fail the test button?”

How to spot it

A GFCI outlet has TEST and RESET buttons. Some plain outlets are protected by a GFCI outlet elsewhere or by a GFCI breaker. They may have a "GFCI Protected" sticker. Check bathrooms, kitchen counters, garage, outdoor outlets, laundry, and unfinished basement. To test one, CPSC says plug in a lamp and turn it on. Press TEST. The lamp should go off. Press RESET. It should come back on.

Why it matters

CPSC says GFCIs are designed to protect people from severe or fatal shocks. CPSC points to places where electrical equipment is near water. It says GFCIs have played a key role in reducing electrocutions. CPSC says the code mostly applies to new homes and major remodels. So older homes often lack GFCIs in some spots.

When this applies

Every home should test its GFCIs each month (CPSC). Homes built before about 2008 are the most likely to be missing some. The national code added GFCI in steps (CPSC and UL): outdoor outlets 1973, bathrooms 1975, garages 1978, whirlpool tubs 1981, near kitchen sinks 1987, unfinished basements and crawl spaces 1990, wet bars 1993, all kitchen counters 1996, laundry and utility sinks 2005. Towns adopted each code at different times.

Sources: GFCI Fact Sheet, Publication 099 (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Some History of Residential Wiring Practices in the U.S. (2006) (Underwriters Laboratories (David Dini, P.E.); copy hosted by City of Idaho Falls)

Safe first steps

Ask your electrician which circuits have AFCIs and how to test them safely. When you remodel, add circuits, or replace the panel, ask about AFCI protection. If an AFCI keeps tripping, call an electrician. Don't just keep resetting it.

Who to call

A licensed electrician.

Ask your inspector

“Which circuits in this house have AFCI protection, if any?”

How to spot it

Ask your electrician or home inspector which circuits have AFCI protection. You can also check permit records for when the house was wired or rewired. Let the pro look. Do not open or remove any panel cover to check.

Why it matters

CPSC says regular fuses and breakers do not respond to early arcing and sparking. By the time they trip, a fire may have started. CPSC says AFCIs can add protection against these wiring fires. It says older homes with ordinary breakers may especially benefit.

When this applies

No home needed AFCI before 2002. From 2002, the code required it for bedroom circuits only (UL). The 2008 code added most living areas. The 2014 code added kitchens and laundry areas. In Florida, the living-area rule took effect March 15, 2012. The kitchen and laundry rule took effect December 31, 2017. Some states adopted these rules later or changed them, so we flag homes built through about 2020.

Related guides: Breaker Keeps Tripping? Stop and Get the Cause Checked

Sources: Preventing Home Fires: Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCIs), Publication 5133 (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Some History of Residential Wiring Practices in the U.S. (2006) (Underwriters Laboratories (David Dini, P.E.); copy hosted by City of Idaho Falls); Florida Building Codes Effective Dates (Highlands County, Florida); Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupters (National Association of Home Builders); Florida Building Code Changes: What You Need to Know and More (AIA Florida (Rick Logan, AIA))

Safe first steps

If young children live in or visit the home, ask an electrician to put in TR outlets. Start where kids play and sleep. NFPA says plug-in caps can get lost and can be a choking hazard. It also says kids can learn to open sliding covers.

Who to call

A licensed electrician.

Ask your inspector

“Are the outlets in this home tamper-resistant?”

How to spot it

Look closely at the slots. On a TR outlet, plastic shutters block the slots. You can't see straight in. You may also see the letters TR on the face. Older outlets have open slots.

Why it matters

NFPA says the shutters open only when both prongs of a plug push in together. So a child poking one slot does not reach the electricity. NFPA says about 1,800 children age 14 or under got ER care in 2006 for outlet shocks or burns.

When this applies

The 2008 national code first required tamper-resistant (TR) outlets in new and renovated homes (NFPA). States adopted it at different times. In Florida, the state code with this rule took effect March 15, 2012. An older home may have some TR outlets if outlets were replaced later.

Sources: Tamper-resistant Electrical Receptacles (tip sheet) (National Fire Protection Association; copy hosted by City of Sanford, NC); Florida Building Codes Effective Dates (Highlands County, Florida); Florida Building Code Changes: What You Need to Know and More (AIA Florida (Rick Logan, AIA))

Safe first steps

CPSC says to have an electrician qualified in pool and spa work inspect and upgrade it to code. Ask about GFCI protection for pool lights, pumps, and nearby outlets. Learn where the pool equipment switches and breakers are, so you can shut them off fast. If a swimmer feels a tingle, CPSC says move away from the source and get out. Avoid a metal ladder if you can. If someone is shocked, turn off all power, then call 911.

Who to call

A licensed electrician who does pool and spa work. Call 911 for any shock injury.

Ask your inspector

“Do the pool lights, pump, and outlets near the water have working GFCI protection?”

How to spot it

Look for GFCI outlets near the water, with TEST and RESET buttons. Test them with the TEST button. Note any cords or plug-in devices near the water. Ask when the pool lights and wiring were last inspected. CPSC lists warning signs in the water: tingling, muscle cramps, or a swimmer who can't move.

Why it matters

CPSC says wet skin and wet surfaces greatly raise the chance of electrocution. CPSC is most concerned about faulty underwater lights in older pools. It also names aging wiring that hasn't been inspected in years. Other hazards: sump pumps, power washers, and vacuums that are not grounded, and cords that fall into the water.

When this applies

Applies to any home with a pool, spa, or hot tub, whatever its age. Older pools may predate GFCI rules. UL says the code required GFCI for underwater pool lights in 1968 and for outlets near pools in 1971.

Related guides: How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: Don't Swim With Shocks: CPSC, American Red Cross Warn of Electrocutions in Swimming Pools, Hot Tubs and Spas (May 20, 2003) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Don't Swim with Shocks: Electrical Safety In and Around Pools, Spas and Hot Tubs (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); GFCI Fact Sheet, Publication 099 (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Some History of Residential Wiring Practices in the U.S. (2006) (Underwriters Laboratories (David Dini, P.E.); copy hosted by City of Idaho Falls)

Safe first steps

After a flood, keep the power off until an electrician checks the system. Ready.gov says don't touch electrical equipment if it is wet or you are standing in water. Stay away from downed power lines. If you are buying, ask which electrical parts were replaced after any flood. Ask to see permits for the work.

Who to call

A licensed electrician. Your electric utility for downed lines. Your insurance agent for claim questions.

Ask your inspector

“Has this home ever had flood water, and were the panel, breakers, outlets, and wiring replaced or checked by an electrician afterward?”

How to spot it

Ask the seller, or check your records, whether water ever reached outlets, wiring, or the panel. Look for water lines on walls, and rust or mud around outlets and the outside of the panel. Don't touch. Ask for repair records, permits, and past insurance claims.

Why it matters

NEMA is the trade group for electrical makers. It says wet equipment can be extremely hazardous if the power comes back on without a proper check. Its guide says to replace water-damaged breakers, fuses, GFCIs, AFCIs, outlets, and switches. It also says to replace wet cable made only for dry places, such as NM-B. The panel box itself may sometimes be reconditioned, but only with its maker's guidance. Salt water is especially damaging.

When this applies

Applies to any home that ever had flood water, storm surge, or a major leak reach outlets, wiring, or the panel. The home's age does not matter.

Related guides: How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: NEMA GD 1-2016: Evaluating Water-Damaged Electrical Equipment (National Electrical Manufacturers Association); Floods (Ready.gov (FEMA))

Safe first steps

1. Photograph the door label.
2. Test your smoke alarms.
3. Ask a licensed electrician to check the panel and quote a replacement.
4. Ask your insurance agent if the panel affects your policy.
5. If a breaker trips, don't just reset it. CPSC says to find out why first.
6. Don't switch these breakers off and on to test them. CPSC's general checklist says to do that once a year. But inspectors report this brand's breakers can stick. Let the electrician test them.

Who to call

A licensed electrician to check the panel and quote a replacement. Your insurance agent to ask about coverage.

Ask your inspector

“Is the main panel or any subpanel an FPE Stab-Lok, and did you take off the cover to check for heat damage?”

How to spot it

Find your breaker box. It is often in the garage, a utility room, or on an outside wall. First look without touching. If it is warm, wet, rusty, buzzing, or smells burnt, don't open it. Otherwise, open only the small hinged door, the one you use to reset a breaker. Don't unscrew anything. Read the door and the label inside it. Look for Federal Pacific Electric, FPE, Federal Electric, Federal Noark, or Stab-Lok. Take a clear photo of the label. Other companies also made breakers that fit these panels. So newer-looking breakers don't rule out an FPE panel. If the label is gone, let an electrician tell you the brand.

Why it matters

A breaker should shut off power when a circuit is overloaded. In 1983, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) ended its study of these breakers. It said its tests found some failed certain UL tests. UL is a product safety testing group. CPSC also said its data did not show a serious risk. It closed the case partly because more testing would cost several million dollars. CPSC never decided whether the breakers are safe. There was no recall. Hanover, an insurer, says the safest choice is to replace the panel. Some Florida insurers' rules say homes with these panels don't qualify for a policy. So it can affect your insurance, your sale, and your budget.

Insurance note

Some Florida insurers' guides list FPE or Stab-Lok panels as ineligible. That means the home does not qualify for that policy. We found this in guides from Universal (2018), Anchor (2019), and Slide (January 2023, its Legacy Product). These guides may be out of date. Citizens' 4-point form asks for the panel brand and a photo of the door label. This form is an inspection report on a home's main systems. We found no Citizens rule that names FPE. Rules differ by company and change, so ask your agent.

When this applies

FPE panels went into homes from about 1950 to the mid-1980s. Hanover, an insurer, says 1950 to 1985. We show it through about 1990 because the end year is not exact. Older homes may have gotten one when the panel was upgraded.

Related guides: Federal Pacific Stab-Lok or Zinsco Panel? Check the Label and the Record · Breaker Keeps Tripping? Stop and Get the Cause Checked · Smoke and CO Alarms: Check Placement, Test, and Age · How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: Commission Closes Investigation of FPE Circuit Breakers and Provides Safety Information for Consumers (1983, revised 2011) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Record of Commission Action: Reliance Electric / Federal Pacific Electric circuit breakers (Dec 8, 1982) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Home Electrical Safety Checklist (Pub. 513) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Federal Pacific Electric (FPE) Stab-Lok breakers and panelboards (The Hanover Insurance Group); Florida Underwriting Binding Guidelines (10-24-18 Edition) (Universal Property & Casualty); Underwriting Reference Guide - FL Premier Homeowners (V20191216) (Anchor Insurance); Slide Florida Homeowners Quick Reference Guide (Legacy Product), January 2023 (Slide Insurance); 4-Point Inspection Form (Sample Form Insp4pt 03 25) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); FPE Stab-Lok identification (InspectAPedia); Stab-Lok (Wikipedia)

Safe first steps

1. Photograph the door label.
2. Test your smoke alarms.
3. Have a licensed electrician check the panel and quote a replacement.
4. Ask your insurance agent if the panel affects your policy.
5. Don't switch these breakers off and on to test them. CPSC's general checklist says to do that once a year. But inspectors report a damaged Zinsco breaker can look off and still be on. Let the electrician test them.

Who to call

A licensed electrician to check the panel and quote a replacement. Your insurance agent to ask about coverage.

Ask your inspector

“Is my panel a Zinsco or Sylvania, and did you see loose breakers or heat damage with the cover off?”

How to spot it

First look without touching. If the box is warm, wet, rusty, buzzing, or smells burnt, don't open it. Otherwise, open only the small hinged door, the one you use to reset a breaker. Don't unscrew anything. Look on the door and label for Zinsco, Sylvania, GTE-Sylvania, or Magnatrip. Zinsco breakers often have colored handles. Take a photo of the label. Other companies made breakers that fit these panels. So new-looking breakers don't rule it out. If you're not sure, have an electrician confirm the brand.

Why it matters

Inspectors report that these breakers can work loose from the metal bar they plug into. That can cause sparks and heat. Then a breaker may not shut off power when it should. We found no government recall or official finding on these panels. Some Florida insurers' rules say homes with them don't qualify for a policy. That can affect your insurance, your sale, and your budget.

Insurance note

Some Florida insurers' guides list these panels as ineligible. That means the home does not qualify for that policy. We found this in guides from Universal (2018, Zinsco and Sylvania-Zinsco), Anchor (2019), and Slide (January 2023, its Legacy Product). These guides may be out of date. Citizens' 4-point form asks for the panel brand. This form is an inspection report on a home's main systems. Rules differ by company and change, so ask your agent.

When this applies

Zinsco breakers date from about 1950. GTE-Sylvania bought the line in 1973 and left the business in 1981. Panels already made could still go into homes for a few years. So we show it through about 1985. Most went into homes from about the 1950s to the 1970s. Older homes may have gotten one when the panel was upgraded. Later Challenger-brand panels are a separate item.

Related guides: Federal Pacific Stab-Lok or Zinsco Panel? Check the Label and the Record · Breaker Keeps Tripping? Stop and Get the Cause Checked · Smoke and CO Alarms: Check Placement, Test, and Age · How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: Zinsco Electrical Panels (inspection narrative reference) (InterNACHI Inspection Narrative Library); Zinsco (Wikipedia); Zinsco electric panel notification (InspectAPedia); Home Electrical Safety Checklist (Pub. 513) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Florida Underwriting Binding Guidelines (10-24-18 Edition) (Universal Property & Casualty); Underwriting Reference Guide - FL Premier Homeowners (V20191216) (Anchor Insurance); Slide Florida Homeowners Quick Reference Guide (Legacy Product), January 2023 (Slide Insurance); 4-Point Inspection Form (Sample Form Insp4pt 03 25) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation)

Safe first steps

1. Photograph the door label and any yellow test buttons.
2. Ask your insurance agent if the panel affects your policy.
3. Have a licensed electrician check it if your insurer asks, or if you see heat or scorch marks.
4. If you might have a recalled HAGF breaker, have an electrician confirm and replace it. CPSC says the company can't be reached at its old phone numbers.

Who to call

Your insurance agent first. A licensed electrician if your insurer asks, if you see heat or scorch marks, or if you may have a recalled HAGF breaker.

Ask your inspector

“Is my panel a Challenger, and are any breakers the recalled HAGF type or an FPE or Zinsco-style design?”

How to spot it

First look without touching. If the box is warm, wet, rusty, buzzing, or smells burnt, don't open it. CPSC says the Challenger name may be stamped on the panel's door handle. It may also be on the label inside the small door. Open only that small hinged door, the one you use to reset a breaker. Take a photo of the label. Also look for a breaker with a yellow button marked test. If its handle shows 15 or 20 in white between ON and OFF, it may be a recalled HAGF breaker.

Why it matters

Experts disagree about these panels. Some inspectors report Challenger breakers overheating where they plug in. A Minnesota inspection firm says Challenger panels are not a concern. Some Florida insurers' rules say homes with them don't qualify for a policy. That can affect insurance and resale. The only CPSC recall we found was narrow. In 1988 it covered HAGF-15 and HAGF-20 ground-fault breakers made February to April 1988. Ground-fault breakers help protect people from shock. A loose part inside could stop that protection. CPSC said normal overload protection still worked.

Insurance note

Some Florida insurers' guides list Challenger panels as ineligible. That means the home does not qualify for that policy. We found this in Anchor's 2019 guide and Slide's January 2023 Legacy Product guide. Universal's 2018 guide names only Challenger-Zinsco boxes. These guides may be out of date. Rules differ by company and change, so ask your agent.

When this applies

The Challenger name was used from about 1978. The brand was reportedly dropped about 2005. Panels already made could still be installed, so we show it through about 2008. Older homes may have gotten one when the panel was upgraded. The 1988 breaker recall in this item applies only to homes built or rewired since February 1988.

Related guides: Breaker Keeps Tripping? Stop and Get the Cause Checked · How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: Challenger Electrical Equipment Corp. Offers Replacement Program for 9,000 GFCI Circuit Breakers (Recall 88-095, Nov 12, 1988) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Eaton Corp. Form S-3 (1994), Challenger acquired by Westinghouse in 1987 (U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (EDGAR)); Zinsco (1978 relabel as Challenger) (Wikipedia); Challenger breakers history (Oregon Breakers); Challenger panels are fine (June 14, 2022) (Structure Tech Home Inspections); Challenger electrical panels (InspectAPedia); FPE Stab-Lok identification (lists Challenger among Stab-Lok-design names) (InspectAPedia); Underwriting Reference Guide - FL Premier Homeowners (V20191216) (Anchor Insurance); Slide Florida Homeowners Quick Reference Guide (Legacy Product), January 2023 (Slide Insurance); Florida Underwriting Binding Guidelines (10-24-18 Edition) (Universal Property & Casualty)

Safe first steps

1. Photograph the label and the push buttons.
2. Test your smoke alarms.
3. Have a licensed electrician look at it, especially before you add big appliances.
4. Ask your insurance agent if the panel matters to them.
5. Never trust a button to mean a circuit is off. Let an electrician test the breakers.

Who to call

A licensed electrician. Your insurance agent.

Ask your inspector

“Is my panel a Pushmatic, and should an electrician check whether it needs to be replaced?”

How to spot it

First look without touching. If the box is warm, wet, rusty, buzzing, or smells burnt, don't open it. Otherwise, open only the small hinged door. Pushmatic breakers are push buttons, not flip switches. You press them to turn a circuit off or on. The label may say Pushmatic, Bulldog, Bull Dog, or ITE. Take a photo of the label and the buttons.

Why it matters

Inspectors report these old breakers can get stiff or jam. One reported problem is a breaker that seems off but is still on inside. We found no recall or government finding on them. The panel's age alone may lead an insurer, inspector, or buyer to ask for an electrician's opinion.

Insurance note

Pushmatic is not named in the Florida carrier guides we read: Universal (2018), Anchor (2019), and Slide (January 2023). But one insurance program's application for condo and HOA buildings asks about ITE Pushmatic panels. So your insurer may ask too. Rules differ by company, so ask your agent.

When this applies

Most were installed from about 1950 to 1970. The line dates to about 1930 and changed owners into the mid-1980s, so a somewhat newer home can have one. Older homes may have gotten one when the panel was upgraded.

Related guides: Breaker Keeps Tripping? Stop and Get the Cause Checked · Smoke and CO Alarms: Check Placement, Test, and Age

Sources: Bulldog and ITE Pushmatic circuit breaker design and history (InspectAPedia); Home Electrical Safety Checklist (Pub. 513): breakers can become stuck (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Community Association Program P&C Supplemental Application (03/25/21) (IHG Insurance (Ian H. Graham, a wholesale broker and program administrator)); Florida Underwriting Binding Guidelines (10-24-18 Edition) (Universal Property & Casualty); Underwriting Reference Guide - FL Premier Homeowners (V20191216) (Anchor Insurance); Slide Florida Homeowners Quick Reference Guide (Legacy Product), January 2023 (Slide Insurance)

Safe first steps

1. Photograph any fuses you can see without touching.
2. If you don't know the right sizes, have an electrician identify and label them, as CPSC suggests.
3. Ask the electrician about Type S fuse adapters. CPSC says these only accept the correct fuse size.
4. Ask the electrician about replacing the panel.
5. Ask your insurance agent if fuses affect your policy.
6. If a fuse blows, find out why before it is replaced.

Who to call

A licensed electrician. Your insurance agent.

Ask your inspector

“Does this home have any fuses, even in a subpanel, and are any fuses too big for the wires they protect?”

How to spot it

With a fuse box, a blown fuse must be replaced. It can't be switched back on like a breaker. Screw-in fuses look like the base of a light bulb, with a small window on top. Cartridge fuses are tubes held in pull-out blocks. Don't open the fuse box just to look. If the fuses are already in plain view, read the numbers without touching. Fuses for lights and outlets are usually 15, or 20 at most. CPSC says a bigger one there may mean someone swapped it. Main fuses and fuses for big appliances can be larger. So let an electrician judge the sizes. If you can't see the fuses, let an inspector or electrician read them.

Why it matters

Fuses protect wires only when they are the right size. CPSC warns that people sometimes put in a bigger fuse when one keeps blowing. A too-big fuse may not blow. Then the wires can overheat and start a fire. Some Florida insurers' rules say a home with fuses doesn't qualify for a policy. A fuse box can also mean small electrical service. See the 60-amp item.

Insurance note

Some Florida insurers' guides list homes with fuses as ineligible. That means the home does not qualify for that policy. We found this in guides from Universal (2018), Anchor (2019), and Slide (January 2023, its Legacy Product). These guides may be out of date. Citizens' 4-point form asks if the panel uses breakers or fuses. This form is an inspection report on a home's main systems. It lists blowing fuses and over-fusing as hazards. Over-fusing means a fuse too big for its wires. Rules differ by company, so ask your agent.

When this applies

Fuse boxes were common in homes built before about the 1960s. Florida inspectors say the switch to breakers was done by about the mid-1970s. Any older home can still have fuses, including in a second, smaller panel.

Related guides: Smoke and CO Alarms: Check Placement, Test, and Age · How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: CPSC Guide to Home Wiring Hazards (Pub. 518) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Home Electrical Safety Checklist (Pub. 513) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); 4-Point Inspection Form (Sample Form Insp4pt 03 25) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); Florida Underwriting Binding Guidelines (10-24-18 Edition) (Universal Property & Casualty); Underwriting Reference Guide - FL Premier Homeowners (V20191216) (Anchor Insurance); Slide Florida Homeowners Quick Reference Guide (Legacy Product), January 2023 (Slide Insurance); When did circuit breakers replace fuses in homes? (McGarry and Madsen Home Inspection (How To Look At A House))

Safe first steps

1. Photograph the main breaker and the door label.
2. Before adding big appliances or an EV charger, ask an electrician for a load calculation. That is a check of how much power you need.
3. Ask your insurance agent about amp rules.
4. Get a quote for a service upgrade. Ask what it involves, such as a permit or work by the power company.

Who to call

A licensed electrician for the load check and upgrade. Your power company for problems at the meter or incoming wires. Your insurance agent.

Ask your inspector

“What is the amp rating of the main service, and is it enough for the home's appliances and air conditioning?”

How to spot it

Amps measure how much power the home can draw at once. First look without touching. If the panel is warm, wet, rusty, buzzing, or smells burnt, don't open it. Otherwise, with a breaker panel, open only the small hinged door. Find the main breaker. It is usually the largest one, often at the top. Look for its number: 60, 100, 150, or 200. The label inside the door may list it too. If you have a fuse box, don't open it. CPSC links a panel with just four screw-in fuses to 60-amp service. The main breaker's number is only a clue. An electrician can confirm your true service size.

Why it matters

Small service may not keep up with today's appliances. Adding central air, an electric range, or an EV charger may need an upgrade. Some insurers require at least 100 amps. Florida's Citizens does for new policies. If a buyer uses an FHA loan, the appraiser must report if the amps and panel size look too small. The appraiser must also tell the lender. That may add steps before the loan can close.

Insurance note

Citizens (Florida): new policies and rewrites need at least 100 amps. Policies in effect before 9/1/2012 can keep 60 amps. Its 4-point form asks for total amps and whether they are enough for current use. This form is an inspection report on a home's main systems. Universal's 2018 guide and Anchor's 2019 guide also call for at least 100 amps. Rules differ by company and change, so ask your agent.

When this applies

60-amp service was common in homes built before about 1960. One inspector says 100 amps became standard for new homes starting in the 1960s. The change was gradual, so we show it through about 1975, like the fuse-box item. Any older home can still have it if the service was never upgraded.

Related guides: Home Repair Loans: Compare the Full Cost · How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: Citizens FAQ: amperage requirements (updated 08/25/2026) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); 4-Point Inspection Form (Sample Form Insp4pt 03 25) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); CPSC Guide to Home Wiring Hazards (Pub. 518) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); SFH Handbook 4000.1 (official current version) (U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development); FHA Single Family Housing Policy Handbook 4000.1 (Update 18 redline, Aug 2026), appraiser electrical system review (U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development); Florida Underwriting Binding Guidelines (10-24-18 Edition) (Universal Property & Casualty); Underwriting Reference Guide - FL Premier Homeowners (V20191216) (Anchor Insurance); Differences between 60-amp and 100-amp service in old fuse panels (Sept 2025) (LiteHouse Inspect)

Safe first steps

1. If you have a Square D QO panel put in during 2020 or later, contact Schneider Electric. Call 1-888-778-2733, option 8, or visit se.com/us/qoloadcenter-safetyrecallnotice. They set up a free inspection by a trained electrician.
2. Keep working smoke alarms while you wait, as CPSC advises.
3. Keep the inspection paperwork for your insurer and for when you sell.

Who to call

Schneider Electric's recall line: 1-888-778-2733, option 8, weekdays 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. ET. A licensed electrician for anything else.

Ask your inspector

“Is the panel a Square D QO Plug-On Neutral with a date code from 194871 to 221343, and was the free recall inspection done?”

How to spot it

Look for a gray Square D panel with QO on the label. The recall covers QO Plug-On Neutral panels. First look without touching. If the box is warm, buzzing, or smells burnt, don't open it. Otherwise, open only the small hinged door. Schneider Electric, the maker, says the date code is on the label inside the door. Recalled codes run from 194871 to 221343. CPSC says codes on indoor panels may be hidden from owners. If you can't find a code, don't open anything else. Call Schneider or an electrician.

Why it matters

In June 2022, Schneider Electric recalled these panels, working with CPSC. CPSC says the panel can overheat and cause burns or a fire. Schneider says a wire screw inside may not have been tightened enough. CPSC listed one report of a loose wire and no injuries. The inspection and any repair or replacement are free.

Insurance note

Slide's January 2023 Florida Legacy Product guide lists breaker boxes under a recall as ineligible. That means the home does not qualify for that policy. We don't know if a finished recall inspection meets that rule. Your insurer may ask, so keep the paperwork and ask your agent.

When this applies

Recalled panels were made from about December 2019 to March 2022. The maker says panels installed before 2020 are not affected. Installs may have run into about 2023. An older home can have one if its panel was replaced in 2020 or later.

Related guides: Smoke and CO Alarms: Check Placement, Test, and Age

Sources: Schneider Electric Recalls 1.4 Million Electrical Panels Due to Thermal Burn and Fire Hazards (Recall 22-159, June 16, 2022) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); QO Plug-on-Neutral Load Center Safety Alert (Schneider Electric); Slide Florida Homeowners Quick Reference Guide (Legacy Product), January 2023 (Slide Insurance)

Safe first steps

1. If your home was built or rewired from mid-2010 to about 2012 and has a Siemens or Murray panel, ask an electrician to check the date codes.
2. CPSC told owners to contact Siemens for a free inspection and replacement. The number it listed was 800-756-6996. Ask Siemens if the offer still stands.
3. Test your smoke alarms.

Who to call

A licensed electrician. Siemens about the recall.

Ask your inspector

“Is the panel a Siemens or Murray from about 2010, and could any breakers or the box carry the recalled date codes?”

How to spot it

First look without touching. If the box is warm, buzzing, or smells burnt, don't open it. Otherwise, open only the small hinged door. Read the brand on the label. Look for Siemens or Murray. CPSC says breaker date codes 0610 or 0710 are on a label on the side of each breaker. Panel date codes are stamped inside the metal box. You can't see these safely yourself. An electrician has to check them. Take a photo of the door label.

Why it matters

CPSC says a spring clip in these products can break. The connection can then get too hot and spark. That can damage the panel and start a fire. The recall covered 15- to 50-amp breakers, panels, and meter combos. A meter combo is a panel joined to the electric meter box. CPSC listed one broken clip and no injuries.

Insurance note

One Florida insurer's guide (Slide, January 2023, its Legacy Product) lists breaker boxes under a recall as ineligible. That means the home does not qualify for that policy. Keep proof of any recall inspection or fix, and ask your agent.

When this applies

The recalled products were sold June to August 2010. We show it for homes built about 2010 to 2012 to allow for later installs. An older home can have them if breakers or the panel were replaced then.

Related guides: Smoke and CO Alarms: Check Placement, Test, and Age

Sources: Siemens Recalls Circuit Breakers Due to Fire Hazard (Recall 10-354, Sept 23, 2010) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Slide Florida Homeowners Quick Reference Guide (Legacy Product), January 2023 (Slide Insurance)

Safe first steps

1. If you see Square D AFCI breakers with blue test buttons, take a photo.
2. Call Square D customer care at 888-778-2733. Ask if the free replacement still applies.
3. Have a licensed electrician confirm and replace any recalled breakers.
4. Test your AFCIs with their test buttons. CPSC's checklist says to test them monthly. A passing test does not show a breaker is outside the recall.

Who to call

A licensed electrician. Square D (Schneider Electric) customer care about the recall.

Ask your inspector

“Are there any Square D AFCI breakers with blue test buttons and red CN to JN date codes from the 2004 recall?”

How to spot it

Arc-fault breakers (AFCIs) help prevent fires from damaged wiring. These recalled ones were used on bedroom circuits. First look without touching. If the box is warm, buzzing, or smells burnt, don't open it. Otherwise, open only the small hinged door of a Square D panel. Look for QO or Homeline breakers with a blue test button. Read the label on the front of the breaker. CPSC's recall list includes QO115AFI, QO120AFI, HOM115AFI, and HOM120AFI. It also lists similar numbers with extra letters, like QOB115AFI or QO115AFIC. Take a photo. The red date code (CN through JN) is near the wire screw. You usually can't see it with the cover on. Let an electrician check it.

Why it matters

CPSC says a part inside could fail. Then the breaker may not detect an arc, which is sparking in damaged wiring. Arcs can start fires. CPSC says the breaker would still work as a regular breaker. So the lost protection is easy to miss.

When this applies

The recalled breakers were made after March 1, 2004 and sold March to September 2004. We show it for homes built about 2004 to 2006 to allow for later installs. An older home can have them if its bedroom circuits were updated then.

Related guides: Smoke and CO Alarms: Check Placement, Test, and Age

Sources: CPSC, Schneider Electric North American Division Announce Recall of AFCIs (Nov 3, 2004) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Home Electrical Safety Checklist (Pub. 513): test AFCIs monthly (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission)

Safe first steps

Treat old paint as lead until a test says it isn't. EPA calls this the simplest and safest approach. Wet-clean floors, window sills, and window frames every week. Pick up paint chips right away without making dust. Wash kids' hands, bottles, and toys often. Ask your child's doctor about a blood lead test. To know for sure, hire a certified inspector or risk assessor. A risk assessment also checks dust and bare soil. A permanent fix is called abatement. It removes the lead paint, or seals or covers it with special materials. Afterward, cleanup goes on until a dust test, called clearance, passes.

Who to call

A certified lead inspector or risk assessor. Use EPA's Lead-Based Paint Professional Locator, or call 1-800-424-LEAD (5323). In Florida, EPA does the certifying. For a permanent fix, hire a certified lead abatement contractor. If a child may be exposed, call the child's doctor.

Ask your inspector

“Are you EPA- or state-certified, and will you test paint, dust, and bare soil?”

How to spot it

You can't see lead in paint. The build year is the biggest clue. EPA estimates 87% of homes built before 1940 have some. For homes built 1960 to 1978, EPA's estimate is 24%. Look for peeling, chipping, chalking, or cracking paint. Check spots that rub or bump, like windows, doors, stairs, and porches. Chew marks on sills or railings are a warning sign. A child may be eating paint. Only a certified lead inspector or risk assessor can tell you for sure. Both are trained lead testers.

Why it matters

Lead is a poison. Children under 6 and unborn babies are most at risk. In kids, it can cause learning, speech, and behavior problems. No safe blood lead level has been found. Paint in good shape is usually not a hazard. But paint that rubs or gets bumped, like on windows, can still make dust. So can worn or damaged paint. Scraping, sanding, or heating paint makes dust too. You often can't see this dust.

When this applies

Most likely in homes built before about 1978, when lead paint for homes was banned. A home built in 1978 could still have some older paint. Newer homes are unlikely to have it.

Sources: How can I tell if my home contains lead-based paint? (U.S. EPA); Protect Your Family From Lead in Your Home (January 2026) (U.S. EPA, HUD, and CPSC); Protect Your Family from Sources of Lead (U.S. EPA); Lead Abatement, Inspection, and Risk Assessment (U.S. EPA); 16 CFR 1303.1 Scope and application (ban of lead-containing paint) (CPSC regulation, via Cornell LII); Lead Test Kits (U.S. EPA)

Safe first steps

Sellers and landlords: gather any lead reports you have. Fill out the form honestly. If you know of no lead, you can say so. Keep signed copies for 3 years. Buyers: decide whether to use the 10-day window. Selling to an FHA buyer? Get peeling paint fixed early by a Lead-Safe Certified firm. For small spots, FHA accepts scraping and repainting by that firm. No repair is needed if a certified inspector finds the paint isn't lead.

Who to call

Your real estate agent or a real estate attorney for the forms. A certified lead inspector or risk assessor for a buyer's check. An EPA Lead-Safe Certified firm for paint repairs.

Ask your inspector

“Can you finish a lead paint inspection or risk assessment within my 10-day contract window?”

How to spot it

It applies when a home built before 1978 is sold or rented. The contract or lease should include a Lead Warning Statement. It should also have a signed lead disclosure form. The buyer or renter should get EPA's lead booklet. It's called Protect Your Family From Lead in Your Home. Buyers get a 10-day window to check for lead. Both sides can agree in writing to change it. Buyers can also waive it in writing.

Why it matters

Before a deal is signed, sellers and landlords must share known lead facts. They must also hand over any lead reports. The rule does not make them test or remove lead paint. Breaking the rule can bring federal penalties. Knowingly breaking it can also mean paying the buyer or renter three times their damages. FHA loans add a step. The appraiser must note chipped or peeling paint on a pre-1978 home. Then the appraiser must require a repair.

When this applies

The federal rule covers homes built before 1978 when they are sold or rented. Some cases are exempt. Examples are foreclosure sales and short rentals that can't be renewed. Studios and senior or disability housing are exempt too, unless a child under 6 lives or will live there.

Sources: Lead-Based Paint Disclosure Rule (Section 1018 of Title X) (U.S. EPA); Real Estate Disclosures about Potential Lead Hazards (U.S. EPA); 40 CFR 745.101 Scope and applicability (exemptions) (EPA/HUD regulation, via Cornell LII); 40 CFR 745.103 Definitions (target housing) (EPA/HUD regulation, via Cornell LII); 40 CFR 745.107 Disclosure requirements for sellers and lessors (EPA/HUD regulation, via Cornell LII); 40 CFR 745.110 Opportunity to conduct an evaluation (EPA/HUD regulation, via Cornell LII); 42 U.S.C. 4852d Disclosure of information concerning lead upon transfer of residential property (U.S. Code, via Cornell LII); Single Family Housing Policy Handbook 4000.1, Update 18 redline (Aug 12, 2026) (U.S. HUD); 24 CFR 200.810 Title I and Title II lead-based paint requirements (HUD regulation, via Cornell LII)

Safe first steps

Hire only a Lead-Safe Certified firm. Ask who the certified renovator on your job is. Keep kids, pregnant people, and pets away from the work area. Expect daily cleanup and a cleanup check at the end. Want proof the area is clean? Write a lead-dust test by a lead pro into your contract. Thinking of doing it yourself? Call 1-800-424-LEAD (5323) for advice first.

Who to call

An EPA Lead-Safe Certified renovation firm. Use EPA's contractor locator or call 1-800-424-LEAD (5323). Some states run their own program. In Florida, EPA runs it. For a permanent fix, hire a certified lead abatement contractor.

Ask your inspector

“Is your firm Lead-Safe Certified, and who is the certified renovator assigned to my job?”

How to spot it

Think about any painting, window, or remodeling job. The rule covers disturbing more than 6 square feet of paint per room inside. Outside, the line is 20 square feet. Any window replacement or demolition of painted parts counts too. Jobs in the same room within 30 days count as one job. The rule doesn't apply if a certified pro tests the paint and finds no lead. Ask to see the firm's Lead-Safe Certified certificate. Before work starts, they must give you EPA's Renovate Right booklet. On the job, look for plastic sheeting, tape, and warning signs.

Why it matters

Sanding, scraping, or tearing out old painted parts can spread lead dust. The rule makes certified firms contain the dust and clean up well. It usually doesn't cover owners working on their own home. It does cover owners who rent out all or part of their home. It also covers home child care and house flippers.

When this applies

The rule covers homes built before 1978. It applies when paid work disturbs painted surfaces.

Related guides: What to Check Before You Sign a Home Repair Contract

Sources: Lead Renovation, Repair and Painting Program (U.S. EPA); 40 CFR 745.82 Applicability (EPA regulation, via Cornell LII); 40 CFR 745.83 Definitions (minor repair and maintenance) (EPA regulation, via Cornell LII); 40 CFR 745.84 Information distribution requirements (EPA regulation, via Cornell LII); 40 CFR 745.85 Work practice standards (EPA regulation, via Cornell LII); The Lead-Safe Certified Guide to Renovate Right (U.S. EPA); Renovate Right pamphlet (PDF) (U.S. EPA); Protect Your Family From Lead in Your Home (January 2026) (U.S. EPA, HUD, and CPSC)

Safe first steps

Cover bare dirt with grass, thick mulch, or clean soil. This is a short-term fix. Check covered spots often. Take off or wipe shoes at the door. Wash hands after yard work and outdoor play. EPA says to grow food at least 10 feet from buildings, roads, and driveways. Or use raised beds with clean soil. Test soil before you grow food in it.

Who to call

A certified lead risk assessor, who can sample bare soil. Your local health department can also give advice.

Ask your inspector

“Will your risk assessment test the bare soil in the play area and along the house walls?”

How to spot it

Look for bare dirt right next to the house and under porches. Check where kids play and where you grow food. Old paint chips in the dirt are a warning sign. You can't see lead in soil. Only a test can tell. Soil near busy roads or industrial sites can also have lead.

Why it matters

Kids can swallow lead when they play in bare dirt. People also track it inside on their shoes. In play areas, EPA calls bare soil a hazard at 400 ppm. That means parts per million. For the rest of the yard, the line is a 1,200 ppm average.

When this applies

Most likely around homes built before about 1978 with painted siding or trim. Soil near busy roads or industrial sites can have lead at any home age.

Sources: Protect Your Family from Sources of Lead (U.S. EPA); 40 CFR 745.65 Lead-based paint hazards (soil-lead hazard) (EPA regulation, via Cornell LII); Protect Your Family From Lead in Your Home (January 2026) (U.S. EPA, HUD, and CPSC)

Safe first steps

If it is in good shape, leave it alone. Keep people and pets away from damaged spots. If bits are on the floor, don't sweep or vacuum them. Before any job that cuts into old materials, have a trained inspector take samples. Federal law does not require this training for work in detached single-family homes. But some states and cities do. In Florida, testing must be done by or under a state-licensed asbestos consultant. Use one company to test and a different one to remove. That way no one profits from telling you to remove it.

Who to call

A trained asbestos inspector or consultant to test. A licensed asbestos abatement contractor (a company trained to repair or remove asbestos) for repair or removal. In Florida, asbestos consultants and contractors must be licensed by the Department of Business and Professional Regulation (DBPR). Inspectors must work under a licensed consultant. Check the license before you hire.

Ask your inspector

“Did you see any materials that could contain asbestos, are any of them damaged, and what should be tested before we remodel?”

How to spot it

You can't tell by looking. Only a lab test can say for sure. It can hide in popcorn ceilings, old floor tiles and their glue, pipe wrap, cement siding, and attic insulation. Start with your build year and any big remodel years. Then look for damage without touching. Watch for crumbling, cracks, water stains, or bits on the floor.

Why it matters

Breathing asbestos fibers can cause lung cancer. It can also cause mesothelioma. That is a rare cancer of the chest or belly lining. Signs of these illnesses usually don't show up until about 20 to 30 years later. EPA says material in good shape is not likely a health risk if left alone. The risk comes when it is sanded, cut, drilled, torn out, or storm-damaged. That is why it matters most before a remodel, repair, or flip.

When this applies

Most likely in homes built or remodeled before about 1980. Illinois EPA says asbestos was still used now and then until the late 1980s. EPA, the federal environmental agency, has records of some asbestos products still sold in 1992. A federal minerals report says most U.S. asbestos used in 2000 went into roofing products. Go by when each material went in, not only the build year.

Related guides: How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire · What to Check Before You Sign a Home Repair Contract

Sources: Protect Your Family from Exposures to Asbestos (U.S. EPA); Learn About Asbestos (U.S. EPA); Asbestos in the Home (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Fast Facts: Asbestos, Do Not Disturb (2007) (U.S. Congress Office of Compliance (now OCWR)); 29 CFR 1926.1101, Asbestos (construction standard) (OSHA); Asbestos in Your House or Apartment (Illinois EPA); Asbestos; Manufacture, Importation, Processing and Distribution Prohibitions (58 FR 58964, Nov. 5, 1993) (U.S. EPA via Federal Register); Mineral Commodity Summaries 2001: Asbestos (U.S. Geological Survey); Florida Statutes s. 469.001, Definitions (2026) (Florida Senate); Florida Statutes s. 469.003, License required (2026) (Florida Senate); Florida Statutes s. 469.004, License; asbestos consultant; asbestos contractor (2026) (Florida Senate)

Safe first steps

If it is not damaged, leave it alone. Before scraping, sanding, or drilling for lights or fans, have a trained inspector take samples. Ask for samples from each area where the texture looks different. If it is wet, sagging, or flaking, keep people out of that room. Get the leak fixed, then call an asbestos pro. The federal product-safety agency (CPSC) says sealing or covering asbestos is a job for trained pros.

Who to call

A trained asbestos inspector to take samples. A licensed asbestos abatement contractor (a company trained to repair or remove asbestos) to seal, cover, or remove it. In Florida, testing must be done by or under a state-licensed asbestos consultant. Removal needs a state-licensed asbestos contractor, with a few exceptions.

Ask your inspector

“Has this ceiling texture or tile been tested for asbestos, and if not, where should samples be taken?”

How to spot it

Look up. A bumpy, cottage-cheese texture is the classic sign. Rough sprayed or troweled texture on walls counts too. Some old ceiling tiles can also contain asbestos, whether glued on or in a drop ceiling. Look for water stains, peeling, sagging, or crumbly spots. Do not poke or scrape it to check.

Why it matters

Sprayed texture can be crumbly. Water leaks and shaking from heating or AC units can loosen it. Scraping, sanding, or drilling can put fibers in the air. Some people scrape off popcorn ceilings themselves. If the texture has asbestos, that job can put fibers in the air. Testing and pro removal can add cost to a remodel or flip.

When this applies

Most likely if the texture or tiles went on before about 1980. OSHA, the federal worker-safety agency, treats sprayed-on ceiling texture in buildings built through 1980 as asbestos until tested. EPA, the federal environmental agency, restricted spray-on asbestos again in 1990. Illinois EPA says use went on now and then until the late 1980s. So test 1980s texture too. Go by when the ceiling was done.

Related guides: How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: Asbestos in the Home (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Learn About Asbestos (U.S. EPA); Fast Facts: Asbestos, Do Not Disturb (2007) (U.S. Congress Office of Compliance (now OCWR)); 29 CFR 1926.1101, Asbestos (construction standard) (OSHA); EPA Actions to Protect the Public from Exposure to Asbestos (U.S. EPA); A Consumer's Guide to Asbestos (California Contractors State License Board); Asbestos: A Guide for New Jersey Residents (New Jersey Department of Health); Asbestos in Your House or Apartment (Illinois EPA); Florida Statutes s. 469.001, Definitions (2026) (Florida Senate); Florida Statutes s. 469.003, License required (2026) (Florida Senate); Florida Statutes s. 469.004, License; asbestos consultant; asbestos contractor (2026) (Florida Senate)

Safe first steps

Leave walls in good shape alone. Before demo, sanding, or cutting new openings, get samples taken. Ask a trained inspector to test the joint compound, texture, and plaster. Share the results with your contractor before work starts. Plan the job around the results.

Who to call

A trained asbestos inspector to take samples. A licensed asbestos abatement contractor (a company trained to repair or remove asbestos) if it tests positive and must be disturbed. In Florida, testing must be done by or under a state-licensed asbestos consultant. Removal needs a state-licensed asbestos contractor, with a few exceptions.

Ask your inspector

“Before we open up these walls, can the joint compound, wall texture, and plaster be tested for asbestos?”

How to spot it

You can't see it. Drywall seams and patches, textured walls, and old plaster all look normal. What matters is when the walls were finished. It also matters whether you plan to sand, cut, or tear them out.

Why it matters

Sanding joint compound or tearing out walls makes lots of fine dust. If the compound, texture, or plaster has asbestos, that dust can carry fibers through the house. Kitchen and bath remodels, and flips that open walls, can stir it up.

When this applies

Most likely in walls finished before about mid-1978. CPSC, the federal product-safety agency, banned asbestos patching compounds. The ban took full effect in June 1978. OSHA, the federal worker-safety agency, treats troweled-on wall texture in buildings built through 1980 as asbestos until tested. Old plaster can contain asbestos too. Sources give no end year for it.

Related guides: How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: Asbestos in the Home (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); 16 CFR 1304.4, Consumer patching compounds as banned hazardous products (CPSC regulation (via Cornell LII)); Asbestos: A Guide for New Jersey Residents (New Jersey Department of Health); A Consumer's Guide to Asbestos (California Contractors State License Board); Fast Facts: Asbestos, Do Not Disturb (2007) (U.S. Congress Office of Compliance (now OCWR)); 29 CFR 1926.1101, Asbestos (construction standard) (OSHA); Florida Statutes s. 469.001, Definitions (2026) (Florida Senate); Florida Statutes s. 469.003, License required (2026) (Florida Senate); Florida Statutes s. 469.004, License; asbestos consultant; asbestos contractor (2026) (Florida Senate)

Safe first steps

If the tiles are intact, the safest choice is often to lay new flooring right over them. New Jersey's health department says that is safer, easier, and cheaper than removal. Don't strip old wax with scrub pads or power strippers. Before removing any old floor, have the tile and the glue tested.

Who to call

A trained asbestos inspector to sample the tile and glue. A licensed asbestos abatement contractor (a company trained to repair or remove asbestos) to remove it. In Florida, some intact flooring can be removed without an asbestos license. But strict state conditions apply. They include written notice to the state at least 3 days ahead. Ask any contractor to show how they meet them.

Ask your inspector

“Can the floor tile and the glue under it be tested for asbestos, including any older layers under this floor?”

How to spot it

Check kitchens, basements, and closets. Old tile may also hide under carpet or newer floors. Don't lift flooring to look. Square tiles 9 by 9 inches are a classic warning sign. Most of them contain asbestos. Some tiles of other sizes, like 12 by 12, do too. The glue underneath, called mastic, can also contain it. So can the backing on old sheet vinyl and some floor-leveling compound. Size is a clue, not proof.

Why it matters

Tiles in good shape hold fibers tightly. Sanding, grinding, chipping, or dry-scraping tile, glue, or backing can release them. Pulling up old floors for a remodel or flip can do this. So test the old layers before you tear out.

When this applies

Most likely in flooring put in before about 1980. OSHA, the federal worker-safety agency, treats vinyl and asphalt flooring installed through 1980 as asbestos until tested. A flooring trade group told EPA, the federal environmental agency, that its members stopped by the mid-1980s. But EPA found asbestos vinyl tile was imported in 1989 and 1990. Old tile can hide under newer floors, so go by when each layer went in.

Related guides: How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: 29 CFR 1926.1101, Asbestos (construction standard) (OSHA); Fast Facts: Asbestos, Do Not Disturb (2007) (U.S. Congress Office of Compliance (now OCWR)); Asbestos: A Guide for New Jersey Residents (New Jersey Department of Health); Asbestos in the Home (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Asbestos; Manufacture, Importation, Processing and Distribution Prohibitions (58 FR 58964, Nov. 5, 1993) (U.S. EPA via Federal Register); Florida Statutes s. 469.002, Exemptions (2026) (Florida Senate)

Safe first steps

Leave it alone. Don't store boxes in that attic. Don't let children play there. Tell any contractor before they go up. Planning removal? Contact the Zonolite Attic Insulation Trust at zaitrust.com first. It is a court-approved settlement trust, not a government program. It repays part of the cost to remove or contain it. Only Zonolite brand qualifies. It needs photos before removal, after removal, and after new insulation. It says payments are expected to go down. You don't need a paid claim service.

Who to call

A licensed asbestos abatement contractor (a company trained to repair or remove asbestos) to remove or contain it. In Florida, removal needs a state-licensed asbestos contractor, with a few exceptions. The Zonolite Attic Insulation Trust about possible partial repayment.

Ask your inspector

“Did you see vermiculite in the attic or walls, even under newer insulation, and would our planned work disturb it?”

How to spot it

Shine a flashlight from the attic hatch. Don't climb in or dig. Vermiculite is loose, pebble-like, pour-in insulation. It is usually gray-brown or silver-gold, with shiny flakes. It may hide under newer fluffy insulation. It can also be inside walls. But EPA says not to open walls to check.

Why it matters

EPA says to assume vermiculite contains asbestos and not to disturb it. It is loose and easy to stir into the air. Attic trips, wiring or AC work, recessed lights, and new insulation can all disturb it. EPA also says tests can give wrong results. EPA says to hire a professional asbestos contractor before work that would disturb it. Buyers may ask about it.

When this applies

EPA, the federal environmental agency, says a mine near Libby, Montana, supplied over 70 percent of U.S. vermiculite from 1919 to 1990. EPA says it was often sold under the name Zonolite. Attics are often topped up years later, so go by when the insulation went in.

Related guides: How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: Protect Your Family from Asbestos-Contaminated Vermiculite Insulation (U.S. EPA); Frequently Asked Questions (Zonolite Attic Insulation (ZAI) Trust); ZAI Trust home page: trust operations and payment percentages (Zonolite Attic Insulation (ZAI) Trust); Florida Statutes s. 469.003, License required (2026) (Florida Senate); Florida Statutes s. 469.004, License; asbestos consultant; asbestos contractor (2026) (Florida Senate)

Safe first steps

In 1982, the federal product-safety agency (CPSC) advised no action if no one has symptoms. If someone has ongoing eye, nose, or breathing problems, see a doctor. Think about an indoor formaldehyde test. Fix any water getting into the walls. Have a specialist remove wet or crumbling foam. A Canadian housing agency said in 2006 that new carpet and wood products like particleboard were likelier formaldehyde sources.

Who to call

A home inspector to look for signs. An indoor air quality pro for a formaldehyde test. A doctor for symptoms. An insulation or remediation contractor if the foam is wet or breaking down.

Ask your inspector

“Do you see signs of urea-formaldehyde foam insulation, like rows of patched holes, and any sign of water getting into those walls?”

How to spot it

Look for a row of small patched holes, evenly spaced on outside or inside walls. They are about 1/2 to 3/4 inch across. Foam may also show where basement floor joists meet outside walls. These signs don't prove UFFI is there. A home inspector may be able to tell. Don't take off outlet covers or open walls to look.

Why it matters

UFFI gave off formaldehyde gas when new. Formaldehyde can irritate eyes, nose, and throat. EPA says it may cause cancer in humans. But EPA also says UFFI gives off less over time. Homes where it went in many years ago are unlikely to have high levels now. Foam that gets wet can break down and should come out. Buyers may still ask about it.

When this applies

EPA, the federal environmental agency, says many homeowners had UFFI put into their walls in the 1970s. So a much older home can have it. CPSC, the federal product-safety agency, banned it for homes in 1982. A federal court struck down that ban in 1983. Homes built after about the early 1980s are unlikely to have it.

Sources: The Inside Story: A Guide to Indoor Air Quality (U.S. EPA and U.S. CPSC); CPSC Bans Urea-Formaldehyde Foam Insulation (UFFI) (1982 news release) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Gulf South Insulation v. U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, 701 F.2d 1137 (5th Cir. 1983) (U.S. Court of Appeals for the Fifth Circuit (via CourtListener)); Urea-Formaldehyde Foam Insulation (UFFI) fact sheet (Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (copy hosted by building-insights.com))

Safe first steps

Look up your address or call your utility. Ask about testing and help with replacement. Until it's replaced, use only cold water for drinking, cooking, and baby formula. Run the tap before drinking water that has been sitting. Clean faucet screens. Use a filter certified to reduce lead (NSF/ANSI 53). Change its cartridge on time. Risk goes up during pipe work and for up to six months after. Ask your utility about a filter when they work on your line. Bathing and showering are considered safe.

Who to call

Your water utility first, for records, testing, and replacement programs. A state-certified lab for water testing. A licensed plumber for the part on your property. Your child's doctor if a child may be exposed.

Ask your inspector

“Where the water line enters the house, what is the pipe made of, and could it be lead?”

How to spot it

Start with your water utility. Look up your address in its list of service lines, called an inventory. Utilities serving over 50,000 people must post it online. Since late 2024, utilities must tell homes with known or possible lead lines. A short lead connector, called a gooseneck, may link your line to the main. You can look where the water pipe enters the house, near the main shutoff. Compare it to the photos in EPA's Protect Your Tap guide. Skip the guide's scratch test. Let your utility or a plumber confirm. Only a water test shows if lead is in your water.

Why it matters

Lead service lines can be a major source of lead in tap water. No safe blood lead level has been found for children. EPA's current rule calls for most utilities to replace lead lines within 10 years. That clock starts in November 2027. The rule is being challenged in court. Who pays for the part on your property depends on local rules and funding.

When this applies

Most likely in homes built before about 1986, when new lead pipe was banned. States had until June 1988 to start enforcing the ban. So a home built by then could still have one. Only homes on public water have a utility service line.

Related guides: Find Your Main Water Shutoff Before a Leak

Sources: Basic Information about Lead in Drinking Water (U.S. EPA); Lead and Copper Rule Improvements fact sheet for the general public (October 2024) (U.S. EPA); Lead and Copper Rule Improvements FAQ for states and water systems (October 2024) (U.S. EPA); Revised Lead and Copper Rule (U.S. EPA); 40 CFR 141.84 Lead service line inventory and replacement requirements (EPA regulation, via Cornell LII); 40 CFR 141.2 Definitions (lead connector, lead service line) (EPA regulation, via Cornell LII); 42 U.S.C. 300g-6 Prohibition on use of lead pipes, solder, and flux (U.S. Code, via Cornell LII); Sources of Lead in Drinking Water (text only) (U.S. EPA); Protect Your Tap: A Quick Check for Lead (U.S. EPA); Lead in Drinking Water (CDC); American Water Works Association v. EPA (Lead and Copper Rule Improvements) (NRDC)

Safe first steps

Test your water through your utility or a state-certified lab. Use only cold water for drinking, cooking, and baby formula. Run the tap before drinking water that has been sitting. Clean faucet screens. If a test finds lead, use a filter certified to reduce lead. For repairs, a plumber must use lead-free solder.

Who to call

Your water utility or a state-certified lab for testing. A licensed plumber for repairs or new pipes.

Ask your inspector

“Is the copper plumbing original to the house, so its joints may contain lead solder?”

How to spot it

Look at copper pipes you can see, like under sinks. Also check near the water heater. Solder is the metal that seals each joint. You can't tell lead solder by looking. If the copper is original to a pre-1986 home, the joints may have lead. Only a water test shows if lead is in your water.

Why it matters

EPA says solder made or installed before 1986 had high lead levels. Lead gets into water when plumbing corrodes. The longer water sits in pipes, the more lead it may have. In homes without lead pipes, lead solder and brass faucets are common sources.

When this applies

Solder made or installed before about 1986 had high lead. States had until June 1988 to start enforcing the lead-free rule. So a home built by then could still have it. Homes re-piped later may not have it.

Sources: Sources of Lead in Drinking Water (text only) (U.S. EPA); 42 U.S.C. 300g-6 Prohibition on use of lead pipes, solder, and flux (U.S. Code, via Cornell LII); Basic Information about Lead in Drinking Water (U.S. EPA); Lead in Drinking Water (CDC)

Safe first steps

Use only cold water for drinking, cooking, and baby formula. Run water that has been sitting before you drink it. Clean faucet screens often. Test your kitchen tap water. When you replace a faucet, pick one certified as lead-free for drinking water.

Who to call

A licensed plumber to replace faucets and valves. Your water utility or a state-certified lab for testing.

Ask your inspector

“Which drinking-water faucets and valves look original to the house?”

How to spot it

Think about how old your kitchen and bathroom faucets are. Check the main shutoff valve and any brass fittings too. Before 2014, the legal lead limit for these parts was much higher. CDC says fixtures made before 1986 may contain lead. You can't tell by looking. Test the water from your kitchen tap.

Why it matters

EPA says brass or chrome-plated brass faucets are a common lead source. That's true even in homes without lead pipes. Warm or hot tap water can have more lead. Today's lead-free rule still allows a small amount of lead. But a new faucet certified to that rule can cut lead from that source.

When this applies

The lead limit for faucets and fittings dropped sharply on January 4, 2014. What matters is when a faucet went in, not when the home was built. An older home may already have newer faucets.

Sources: Lead-Free Definition Under the Safe Drinking Water Act (Kempic, 2012) (U.S. EPA Office of Water); Use of Lead Free Pipes, Fittings, Fixtures, Solder, and Flux for Drinking Water (U.S. EPA); 42 U.S.C. 300g-6 Prohibition on use of lead pipes, solder, and flux (U.S. Code, via Cornell LII); Basic Information about Lead in Drinking Water (U.S. EPA); Lead in Drinking Water (CDC)

Safe first steps

Have a state-certified lab test your water for lead. Follow the lab's sampling steps exactly. Ask your local health department what else to test for. Until you have results, use cold water for drinking and cooking. Run water that has been sitting. If lead is found, use a filter certified to reduce lead.

Who to call

A state-certified drinking water lab. Your local health department. A licensed well contractor or plumber for repairs.

Ask your inspector

“Can your certified lab test my well water for lead, and exactly how should I take the sample?”

How to spot it

Ask the seller if the home is on a private well. A well pump or pressure tank is a common clue. No utility tests your water or tracks your pipes. Corrosive well water can pull lead from pipes, solder, and faucets. You can't see, taste, or smell lead in water.

Why it matters

Federal drinking water law doesn't cover private wells. Most states don't regulate them either. So no one sends you a lead notice or tests for you. No safe blood lead level has been found for children. Testing is the only way to know.

When this applies

Any home on a private well. Older plumbing or corrosive water raises the risk.

Sources: Private Drinking Water Wells (U.S. EPA); Groundwater Corrosivity and Lead in Private Wells (CDC); Basic Information about Lead in Drinking Water (U.S. EPA); Protect Your Family From Lead in Your Home (January 2026) (U.S. EPA, HUD, and CPSC)

Safe first steps

1. Look at the pipes you can see near the water heater and under sinks.
2. Find your main water shutoff. Make sure it is easy to reach.
3. Check under sinks and near the water heater for drips, stains or soft spots.
4. Ask the seller for any re-pipe permit or invoice. Note if it covered the whole house or only part.
5. If you are buying, call your insurance agent early, before your inspection period ends.

Who to call

A licensed plumber to confirm PB and quote a re-pipe. Your insurance agent. In Florida, a licensed inspector for a 4-point insurance inspection (a check of the roof, wiring, plumbing and heating).

Ask your inspector

“Did you see polybutylene pipe anywhere, including at the water heater and main shutoff, and has the house been fully or only partly re-piped?”

How to spot it

Look only at pipes you can see. Check near the water heater, under sinks, and where pipes leave the walls. PB is plastic, not metal. It is usually gray, but can be silver or black. It bends a little. It is not stiff white PVC or CPVC pipe. Its fittings may be held by small copper or aluminum bands. PB carries clean water to your taps. It was not used for drain or sewer pipes. It can be hidden in walls, ceilings or under attic insulation, so it can be missed. InterNACHI's inspector standard doesn't require finding PB, so ask directly.

Why it matters

HUD says PB fittings failed in many homes. Some PB pipe also broke down early from hot, chlorinated water. A failure can cause water damage. A class-action settlement paid for many re-pipes. Its claim deadline was May 1, 2009. That deadline has passed. A pipe trade group says PB has since been removed from U.S. plumbing codes. Today PB can limit your insurance choices.

Insurance note

Florida: Citizens won't write a new policy for a home over 20 years old that has PB. Its FAQ lists six policy forms, including the HO-3 homeowner form. Citizens also needs a 4-point inspection for homes over 20 years old. That is a check of the roof, wiring, plumbing and heating. The form asks about PB by name. Other insurers set their own rules, so ask before you buy.

When this applies

A court settlement covered PB put in from 1978 to mid-1995. PB first came out in the 1970s. We show this for homes built up to about 1996. Older homes are included because some were re-plumbed with PB in those years.

Related guides: Polybutylene Pipe: How to Spot the Gray Plastic and Plan a Re-Pipe · Find Your Main Water Shutoff Before a Leak · Hidden Leak? Try a Two-Hour Water-Meter Check · How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: Polybutylene settlement press release and court notice, Cox v. Shell Oil (June 11, 2008) (Consumer Plumbing Recovery Center (court-established settlement administrator)); The Rehab Guide Volume 8: HVAC/Plumbing (Aug 1999) (U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD USER)); TN-31 Differences Between PEX and PB Piping Systems (2017) (Plastics Pipe Institute (industry trade association)); Will Citizens insure dwellings with polybutylene pipes? (FAQ 1713, updated 01/26/2026) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); Does Citizens require a plumbing inspection? (FAQ 1360, updated 02/25/2026) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); 4-Point Inspection Form (Insp4pt 03 25) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); InterNACHI Home Inspection Standards of Practice (International Association of Certified Home Inspectors); Fla. Admin. Code R. 61-30.806, Standards of Practice: Plumbing (Florida Department of Business and Professional Regulation rule (via Cornell LII))

Safe first steps

1. Try the magnet test on water pipes you can see.
2. Note any low pressure or brown water.
3. If you have a water utility, ask what your service line is made of. Utilities must make their service line list public.
4. Test your water for lead. Your utility or a state-certified lab can help.
5. Until you know, use only cold tap water for drinking, cooking and baby formula. Boiling does not remove lead.
6. Get a licensed plumber's quote to replace old galvanized pipe.

Who to call

Your water utility, a state-certified drinking water lab, and a licensed plumber.

Ask your inspector

“Is any of the water pipe galvanized steel, including the line from the meter, and how much of it is still in use?”

How to spot it

Look at pipes near the water heater, the main shutoff, and in a basement or crawl space. Galvanized pipe is dull gray metal. Hold a fridge magnet to it. A magnet sticks to galvanized pipe. It won't stick to copper, plastic or lead. If a dull gray pipe won't hold a magnet, it may be lead. Don't scratch it. Ask your water utility or a plumber to check it. Gas pipes can be steel too. Only test pipes that carry water. Warning signs are weak water pressure and brown water.

Why it matters

Over time, galvanized pipe can rust and build up scale inside. That can cause low water pressure and brown water. The zinc coating can also contain some lead. A service line is the pipe from the street to your home. EPA says a galvanized service line can soak up lead if it sat downstream of lead pipe. It can release that lead into your water later. You can't see, taste or smell lead in water. Testing is the only sure way to know. A 2024 EPA rule tells water systems to replace some galvanized service lines they control. That rule is being challenged in court.

Insurance note

Florida: the Citizens 4-point form has a Galvanized box. It also asks if the home was re-piped. Citizens' public FAQ does not list galvanized pipe by itself as a reason to decline. It does list active leaks and plumbing that doesn't work right. Other insurers set their own rules, so ask before you buy.

When this applies

A water utility says galvanized pipe was common before the 1960s. HUD says copper replaced it after World War II, and plastic from the 1970s. Dates vary by area, so we show it for homes built before about 1970. Some older homes keep a few galvanized sections after a partial re-pipe.

Related guides: Find Your Main Water Shutoff Before a Leak · Hidden Leak? Try a Two-Hour Water-Meter Check

Sources: Galvanized iron pipes (East Bay Municipal Utility District (public water utility)); The Rehab Guide Volume 8: HVAC/Plumbing (Aug 1999) (U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD USER)); Final Lead and Copper Rule Improvements: FAQ for States and Water Systems (Oct 2024) (U.S. Environmental Protection Agency); Basic Information about Lead in Drinking Water (U.S. Environmental Protection Agency); AWWA statement on LCRI petition (Dec 13, 2024) (American Water Works Association); 4-Point Inspection Form (Insp4pt 03 25) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); Does Citizens require a plumbing inspection? (FAQ 1360, updated 02/25/2026) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation)

Safe first steps

1. Look for orange or blue pipe near the water heater and under sinks.
2. Check the pipe for a printed brand name.
3. Look for white crust, drips or stains at the fittings.
4. Find your main water shutoff and make sure it is easy to reach.
5. Have a licensed plumber confirm it and quote a replacement.

Who to call

A licensed plumber. Your insurance agent if you are buying.

Ask your inspector

“Did you see any Kitec or other plastic-aluminum pipe with a printed brand name, and do any fittings show white crust, leaks or bulging?”

How to spot it

Look near the water heater and under kitchen and bath sinks, where pipes leave the wall. Most Kitec is bright orange (hot) or bright blue (cold). It was also sold in red, gray and black. Normal PEX pipe comes in these colors too, so color alone doesn't prove it. Look for a name printed on the pipe, such as Kitec, PlumbBetter, IPEX AQUA, WarmRite or XPA. Fittings may be stamped Kitec or KTC. Warning signs are white crust on a fitting, or pipe that looks black or bulging.

Why it matters

Kitec fittings and pipe can fail. That can cause leaks, flooding and water damage. Problems often show up first near the water heater. Kitec was the subject of a class-action settlement in the U.S. and Canada. The claim deadline was January 9, 2020, so it is closed to new claims. Insurers and buyers may ask about it.

Insurance note

Your insurer may ask about Kitec or have its own rules, so ask before you buy. The Florida Citizens 4-point form has no Kitec box. An inspector may list it under Other.

When this applies

A Canadian real-estate regulator says Kitec was sold from 1995 to 2007. We show it for homes built up to about 2008. Older homes are included because some were re-plumbed in those years.

Related guides: Find Your Main Water Shutoff Before a Leak · Hidden Leak? Try a Two-Hour Water-Meter Check · How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: Kitec Plumbing System Settlement: Frequently Asked Questions (Kitec settlement administrator); Kitec Plumbing System Settlement: home page (case status) (Kitec settlement administrator); KITEC plumbing (published Aug 7, 2013; updated July 7, 2025) (Nova Scotia Real Estate Commission (provincial regulator)); The Rehab Guide Volume 8: HVAC/Plumbing (Aug 1999) (U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD USER)); 4-Point Inspection Form (Insp4pt 03 25) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation)

Safe first steps

1. Look at drain pipes you can see without moving anything.
2. Note slow drains, gurgling or repeat backups.
3. Before buying an older home, ask for a camera inspection of the main drain.
4. Keep records of any drain repair or replacement.
5. Read the water-damage part of your insurance policy.

Who to call

A licensed plumber with a drain camera.

Ask your inspector

“What are the main drain pipes made of, and can a plumber run a camera through the main drain to check for cracks or rust?”

How to spot it

Drain pipes carry used water out of the house. Cast iron is thick, heavy, dark gray or black metal pipe. Look in a basement, crawl space, garage or under sinks. In homes on a concrete slab, drains often run under the floor, out of sight. Warning signs are rust flakes, cracks or wet stains on the pipe. Also watch for slow drains, gurgling, sewer smells or backups that keep coming back.

Why it matters

HUD says cast iron can rust. Old drain pipe can crack or leak, often where you can't see it. That can cause backups and hidden water damage. In 2022, a trade paper said cast-iron drain claims were a new target in Florida insurance fights. Your policy's exact wording matters.

Insurance note

Florida: A 2022 Insurance Journal story said non-weather water claims had led to court rulings both ways. It called cast-iron drain claims a new target. The exact policy wording was often in dispute. The Florida Citizens 4-point form asks the drain pipes' age and whether they were re-piped. Ask your agent how your policy treats drain leaks.

When this applies

HUD says plastic replaced most cast-iron drain pipe in the 1970s. We show this for homes built before about 1980. Cast iron is still sold, so a newer home can have some too.

Related guides: Sewer Backup: Stop Water Use, Stay Out, and Call

Sources: The Rehab Guide Volume 8: HVAC/Plumbing (Aug 1999) (U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD USER)); 4-Point Inspection Form (Insp4pt 03 25) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); Cast Iron Drainpipes Latest Target in Florida Claims (June 20, 2022) (Insurance Journal); Orangeburg Sewer Piping (notes that cast iron and plastic sewer pipes also fail) (City of Ann Arbor, Building Services)

Safe first steps

1. Find your sewer cleanout. It is often a capped pipe outside near the house. Leave the cap on.
2. Don't pour solvents, paint thinner, mineral spirits or adhesive cleaners down drains. One city says they break down this pipe.
3. Get a sewer camera inspection, especially before you buy.
4. Ask your city or county which part of the sewer line you own.

Who to call

A licensed plumber or sewer contractor with a camera, and your city or county sewer department.

Ask your inspector

“Can a sewer camera be run from the cleanout to the street to check for Orangeburg pipe, flattening or roots?”

How to spot it

You usually can't see it. It is the buried pipe that carries waste from the house to the street or septic tank. It is black and made of wood fiber soaked in tar. Clues are a sewer line put in from the 1940s to the early 1970s, slow drains, or backups that keep coming back. A sewer camera inspection is the way to know.

Why it matters

Orangeburg can lose its round shape and flatten over time. Roots can get in at the joints, and joints can shift or break. When the line fails, sewage can back up into the house. One city says replacing the pipe is often the only lasting fix. The owner is often responsible for the part of the line on their land. Some utilities make owners fix a bad line. Pinellas County Utilities in Florida is one. If its inspection finds a defect, the owner must repair or replace the line at their own cost.

When this applies

Orangeburg sewer pipe was used from about the 1940s to the early 1970s. Its maker closed in 1974. We show it for homes built up to about 1975. Older homes are included because some got a new sewer line in those years.

Related guides: Sewer Backup: Stop Water Use, Stay Out, and Call

Sources: Orangeburg Sewer Piping (City of Ann Arbor, Building Services); Private Sewer Lateral Program: Frequently Asked Questions (Pinellas County (FL) Utilities); The rise and fall of Orangeburg pipe (Aug 22, 2022) (American Public Works Association, Minnesota Chapter History Committee); Call Before You Dig (U.S. DOT Pipeline and Hazardous Materials Safety Administration)

Safe first steps

1. Learn where your sewer line runs and where the cleanout is.
2. Watch for gurgling toilets, wet floor drains or slow drains.
3. Get a sewer camera inspection.
4. If it shows roots, ask a plumber about cleaning versus repair or lining. Some utilities, such as Pinellas County Utilities in Florida, count roots in the pipe as a defect the owner must fix.
5. Don't cut down healthy trees as a fix. Seattle says it likely won't solve a root problem.
6. Ask your city where your part of the line ends.

Who to call

A licensed plumber or sewer contractor with a camera, and your city's sewer utility.

Ask your inspector

“What is the sewer line made of, and does a camera show roots, cracks, shifted joints or sags between the house and the street?”

How to spot it

The pipe is buried, so look for clues. Watch for big trees near the sewer line and gurgling toilets. Also watch for wet spots around floor drains, slow drains or repeat backups. A sewer camera can show roots, cracks and shifted joints.

Why it matters

Older sewer lines were built from short pipe sections joined together. Many older clay and concrete joints were not watertight. Roots grow toward the water and get in at the joints. They can crack the pipe and cause sewage backups. Owners are often responsible for this line. Cutting down the tree likely won't fix it, because roots spread far.

When this applies

One city says clay sewer pipe was common until the late 1980s. Dates vary by city, so we show this for homes built before about 1990. It shows when you have trees near the sewer line.

Related guides: Sewer Backup: Stop Water Use, Stay Out, and Call

Sources: Side Sewer Defects and Issues (Seattle Public Utilities); Tree Root FAQ (City of Traverse City (MI), Sewer and Water); Private Sewer Lateral Program: Frequently Asked Questions (Pinellas County (FL) Utilities); Call Before You Dig (U.S. DOT Pipeline and Hazardous Materials Safety Administration)

Safe first steps

1. Before buying an older home, add a sewer scope to your inspections.
2. Ask for the video and a written note of the pipe type and any problems.
3. Ask that the camera go all the way to the city sewer, or to the septic tank if you have one.
4. Check local rules. In parts of California's East Bay, a sale can't close without proof the sewer line doesn't leak. Pinellas County Utilities in Florida has offered rebates for camera checks when funds allow.

Who to call

A sewer scope inspector or licensed plumber. Your city or county sewer utility. If you have septic, a licensed septic contractor.

Ask your inspector

“Does your inspection include a sewer camera from the cleanout to the city sewer or septic tank, and will I get the video and the pipe type in writing?”

How to spot it

This is a check, not a part of the house. Ask the seller if the sewer line was ever camera-checked or replaced. Ask if there is an outdoor cleanout. That is a capped pipe in the yard that opens into the sewer line. In a sewer scope, a plumber pushes a small camera through the line and records video.

Why it matters

A standard home inspection looks only at pipes you can see. Florida's inspector rule and InterNACHI's standard don't require checking buried pipes. A new ASHI standard, not yet in effect, says inspectors don't have to use sewer cameras. So a broken or root-filled sewer line can be missed. Pinellas County Utilities in Florida says many owners get no warning before a line fails. A failed line can back sewage up into the house.

When this applies

Any home with a sewer line can get one. It matters most for older homes and homes with big trees near the line. On a septic system, the camera runs to the tank instead.

Related guides: Sewer Backup: Stop Water Use, Stay Out, and Call

Sources: Fla. Admin. Code R. 61-30.806, Standards of Practice: Plumbing (Florida Department of Business and Professional Regulation rule (via Cornell LII)); InterNACHI Home Inspection Standards of Practice (International Association of Certified Home Inspectors); ASHI Standard of Practice changes (approved Jan 8, 2026; start date not yet set) (American Society of Home Inspectors); ASHI Standard of Practice for Home Inspections (approved 01/08/26, approved 2026; start date not yet set) (American Society of Home Inspectors); Private Sewer Lateral Program: Frequently Asked Questions (Pinellas County (FL) Utilities); Private Sewer Laterals (East Bay Municipal Utility District)

Safe first steps

1. Know where your main water shutoff is.
2. Keep the permit and invoice for any re-pipe.
3. Now and then, check under sinks and near the water heater for drips at fittings.

Who to call

A licensed plumber, if you see a leak.

Ask your inspector

“What type of water pipe does the house have, when was it installed, and does it serve the whole house or only part of it?”

How to spot it

PEX is bendable plastic tubing. It is often red, blue or white and usually has PEX printed on it. CPVC is stiff, white or off-white plastic pipe with glued joints. Copper is penny-colored metal. Don't confuse PEX with gray polybutylene. Also don't confuse it with Kitec. Kitec is often orange or blue, with a name like Kitec or XPA printed on it.

Why it matters

These are normal pipes. Model plumbing codes still list them for water lines. Like any pipe, they can still leak at fittings. Insurers may ask what pipe you have and when it went in.

Insurance note

Florida: the Citizens 4-point form asks the year PEX was installed and whether the home was fully or partly re-piped. Keep your re-pipe permit and invoice to show your insurer.

When this applies

Any home can have these. HUD says copper tubing got its ASTM standard in 1932. CPVC was first used in 1959. PEX has been used in the U.S. since the 1980s. They are common in newer homes and re-pipes.

Related guides: Find Your Main Water Shutoff Before a Leak · Hidden Leak? Try a Two-Hour Water-Meter Check

Sources: The Rehab Guide Volume 8: HVAC/Plumbing (Aug 1999) (U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD USER)); 2021 International Residential Code, Chapter 29, Table P2906.5 (sample pages) (International Code Council (sample hosted by reseller)); 4-Point Inspection Form (Insp4pt 03 25) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); Kitec Plumbing System Settlement: Frequently Asked Questions (brand names printed on pipe) (Kitec settlement administrator); TN-31 Differences Between PEX and PB Piping Systems (2017) (Plastics Pipe Institute (industry trade association)); Polybutylene settlement press release and court notice (PVC/CPVC is rigid, usually white or off-white) (Consumer Plumbing Recovery Center (court-established settlement administrator))

Safe first steps

Find the date the whole roof was last replaced, and keep the proof. Check ceilings for stains after heavy rain. Before you buy, ask a roofer how many years the roof has left. If your insurer asks about roof age, ask what proof it needs.

Who to call

A licensed roofing contractor. For insurance questions, your agent and an inspector your insurer accepts.

Ask your inspector

“What is the roof made of, when was the whole roof last replaced, and how many years of useful life does it have left?”

How to spot it

Look up the last full re-roof permit with your city or county. Check the seller's disclosure and roofer receipts. From the ground, use binoculars to look for missing, curled, or cracked shingles or tiles. Inside, look for water stains on ceilings.

Why it matters

An old or worn roof can leak and cause water damage inside. A 2007 home builders' study put asphalt shingle roof life at about 20 years. It put slate, copper, and clay or concrete tile roofs at over 50 years. Real life depends on weather, materials, installation, and upkeep. Some insurers look at roof age when they write or renew a policy.

Insurance note

Florida: a homeowners insurer may not refuse to issue or renew your policy solely because of roof age if the roof is less than 15 years old. If the roof is 15 or more years old, the insurer must let you get a roof inspection, at your cost, before it requires a new roof. If that inspection shows at least 5 years of life left, the insurer may not refuse you solely because of roof age. This does not apply to mobile home policies. Citizens asks for proof of at least 5 years of life left on shingle roofs over 25 years old. For tile, slate, clay, concrete, or metal roofs, that starts at over 50 years. Other insurers set their own rules.

When this applies

Any home. This goes by the date the whole roof was last replaced, not the year the house was built. With no records, assume the roof could be as old as the house.

Related guides: Ceiling Water Stain: Is the Leak Active or Old? · How to Compare Roofing Quotes Line by Line · Roofing Contractor Red Flags: 7 Checks Before You Sign

Sources: Study of Life Expectancy of Home Components (February 2007) (National Association of Home Builders / Bank of America Home Equity (third-party-hosted copy)); Florida Statutes s. 627.7011, Homeowners' policies; offer of replacement cost coverage and law and ordinance coverage (roof-age rules in subsection 5) (The Florida Senate); Inspections (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation)

Safe first steps

If it is intact, leave it. New Jersey's health department says it can be sided over. It says a coat of paint can help lock in fibers on worn siding. Ask a pro before any prep work. Get it tested before re-siding, drilling, or roof work. After a storm, keep kids and pets away from broken pieces. Check local disposal rules before throwing any away.

Who to call

A trained asbestos inspector to test. A licensed asbestos abatement contractor (a company trained to repair or remove asbestos) to remove it. In Florida, a licensed roofing contractor may remove asbestos roofing without an asbestos license. That is allowed only when a trained roofing supervisor directs the work on site.

Ask your inspector

“Is this siding or roofing asbestos-cement, and does our roof, siding, or window project need a licensed asbestos contractor?”

How to spot it

Look for hard, brittle siding shingles. They are usually light green, beige, or grayish-white. Some old flat cement siding panels are about 1/8 inch thick and 4 by 8 feet. They are brittle. Old roof felt and some roof cement or coatings can also contain asbestos. Don't break a piece to check. Newer fiber-cement siding can look alike. Only a lab test can tell.

Why it matters

Intact cement siding holds fibers tightly. Cutting, drilling, sanding, breaking, or tearing it off can release them. So re-siding, new windows, a new roof, storm cleanup, and demolition are the risky times. Removal and disposal can cost more and follow extra rules.

When this applies

New Jersey's health department says asbestos-cement siding and shingles were used from about 1940 on. It says asbestos roof felt goes back to about 1910. There is no clean end date. Around 1992, one maker told EPA, the federal environmental agency, that its asbestos-cement shingles were still being sold and installed in the U.S. A federal minerals report says most U.S. asbestos used in 2000 went into roofing products. Go by when the siding or roof went on.

Related guides: How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: Asbestos in the Home (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Asbestos: A Guide for New Jersey Residents (New Jersey Department of Health); Asbestos; Manufacture, Importation, Processing and Distribution Prohibitions (58 FR 58964, Nov. 5, 1993) (U.S. EPA via Federal Register); Mineral Commodity Summaries 2001: Asbestos (U.S. Geological Survey); EPA Actions to Protect the Public from Exposure to Asbestos (U.S. EPA); Learn About Asbestos (U.S. EPA); Florida Statutes s. 469.002, Exemptions (2026) (Florida Senate)

Safe first steps

Keep kids and pets away from broken old materials. Tell your insurer about the damage before tear-out starts. Have damaged old materials tested before repairs. EPA says wet drywall and wood can grow mold after about a day. So ask for quick testing. If suspect materials are damaged, EPA says to get help from specially trained contractors. Don't pick up or bag broken old materials yourself. A regular dust mask is not enough to protect you from asbestos.

Who to call

Your insurance company. A trained asbestos inspector to test damaged materials. A licensed asbestos abatement contractor (a company trained to repair or remove asbestos) for tear-out and cleanup. In Florida, testing must be done by or under a state-licensed asbestos consultant. Removal needs a state-licensed asbestos contractor, with a few exceptions.

Ask your inspector

“Which damaged materials in this home could contain asbestos, and what should be tested before repairs start?”

How to spot it

After damage, look from a safe spot. Watch for broken siding or roof shingles. Also look for fallen ceiling texture or tiles, and torn pipe wrap or insulation. Federal safety agencies list these as places asbestos may be found in older homes. You can't tell by looking. Treat broken old materials as possible asbestos until tested.

Why it matters

Damage turns solid materials into broken, crumbly debris. Cleanup and tear-out can then put fibers in the air. EPA says suspect materials should not be disturbed. Florida's environmental agency warns that storm debris may contain asbestos. It says never to burn building debris.

Insurance note

Washington State's insurance regulator says homeowners debris coverage can include testing and removing asbestos. That applies only when a peril your policy covers, like fire, caused the damage. Flood usually needs a separate policy. This is one state's general guidance, not a promise for your policy. Ask your insurer what is covered before work starts.

When this applies

EPA, the federal environmental agency, says buildings built before 1970 are more likely to contain asbestos. But some asbestos products were still sold after that. A federal minerals report says asbestos roofing products were still used in 2000. So this applies to homes built before about 2000.

Related guides: Roof Insurance Claims: Safe Steps After a Storm · How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: Dealing with Debris and Damaged Buildings (U.S. EPA); Flood Cleanup to Protect Indoor Air and Your Health (U.S. EPA); Asbestos in the Home (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Learn About Asbestos (U.S. EPA); Post-Storm Guidance: Asbestos Debris Cleanup (10/18) (Florida Department of Environmental Protection); Mineral Commodity Summaries 2001: Asbestos (U.S. Geological Survey); Debris removal insurance coverage (Washington Office of the Insurance Commissioner); Florida Statutes s. 469.001, Definitions (2026) (Florida Senate); Florida Statutes s. 469.003, License required (2026) (Florida Senate); Florida Statutes s. 469.004, License; asbestos consultant; asbestos contractor (2026) (Florida Senate)

Safe first steps

1. Find out when your drywall went in. Check permits, closing papers, and remodel or storm-repair records.
2. Write down any smell and when it is worse.
3. Keep your AC repair records. Ask your AC tech if the coils or copper lines were black.
4. Test your smoke and CO alarms.
5. Before any tear-out, hire a pro who uses the two-step check from CPSC and HUD.

Who to call

A home inspector or indoor air pro who follows the CPSC and HUD drywall guidance. A licensed HVAC contractor for AC coils. A licensed electrician for outlets, switches, and breakers. Your doctor if you have symptoms. A real estate attorney before you buy or sell a home that may have it.

Ask your inspector

“Do you see blackened copper wiring or AC coils here, and if so, what tests would confirm or rule out problem drywall?”

How to spot it

This only matters if drywall went in from 2001 to 2009. That includes a remodel or storm repair. Look for bare copper that has turned black instead of green. Only check spots you can see without opening anything. One example is the copper lines at the indoor AC unit. AC coils that were replaced because they turned black are a clue. So is a rotten-egg or sulfur smell. Some boards are stamped as made in China. That is only a clue. Not all drywall from China is a problem. And some problem boards have no label. A pro must confirm it.

Why it matters

Federal studies linked this drywall to black corrosion on copper wiring and AC coils. Health officials say exposed people may have had eye and nose irritation, headaches, or breathing problems. Federal repair guidance calls for a lot of work. It says to replace the problem drywall. It also says to replace smoke and carbon monoxide (CO) alarms, outlets, switches, and breakers. The federal housing agency (HUD) estimated about 11,000 new homes were built with it. Most reports to the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) came from Florida.

Insurance note

A 2012 HUD report to Congress said insurers "consistently denied" these claims. They pointed to the pollution exclusion, a policy rule that leaves out pollution damage. In 2015, a Florida appeals court ruled for one insurer that denied a drywall claim. The owners had not proved a covered cause. Policies differ. Ask your insurer in writing before you count on coverage.

When this applies

The concern is drywall put in from 2001 through 2009. That can be a new home, a remodel, or storm repair. Most reports came from homes built in 2006–2007. A home built before 2001 is only at risk if drywall was added in those years.

Related guides: Smoke and CO Alarms: Check Placement, Test, and Age

Sources: Interim Guidance: Identification of Homes with Corrosion from Problem Drywall (Mar 18, 2011) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission and HUD); Remediation Guidance for Homes with Corrosion from Problem Drywall (Mar 15, 2013) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission and HUD); Where Has Problem Drywall Been Reported? (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, Drywall Information Center); Health Consultation: Chinese-Manufactured Drywall (May 2, 2014) (CDC Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (copy hosted by U.S. District Court, E.D. La.)); Study of the Possible Effect of Problem Drywall Presence on Foreclosures, Report to Congress (July 17, 2012) (U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development); Peek v. American Integrity Ins. Co. of Fla., 181 So. 3d 508 (Fla. 2d DCA 2015) (Florida Second District Court of Appeal (via CourtListener)); Certain Older Gas Connectors May Be Dangerous (Pub. 5135, gas-leak steps) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission)

Safe first steps

1. Ask your HOA or past owners if the roof deck was ever replaced. Get the records.
2. Look only from the attic hatch, with a flashlight.
3. From the ground, look for sagging near shared walls.
4. Ask your home inspector to check the roof boards from the attic.

Who to call

A home inspector first. Then a structural engineer or licensed roofer. In a townhouse or condo, also call your HOA or condo board. The roof may be shared.

Ask your inspector

“Is any roof sheathing near the shared walls fire-treated plywood, and does any of it look dark, brittle, or sagging?”

How to spot it

This mostly applies to townhouses and condos. It is rare on detached houses. Some builders used fire-treated plywood on the roof near a shared wall. It often runs about 4 feet on each side of that wall. From the attic hatch, shine a flashlight on the roof boards near that wall. Warning signs are boards that look darker than the rest. Boards that look brittle or crumbly are another sign. From outside, look for a roof that sags or looks wavy near shared walls. Rot can look the same, so a pro must tell them apart.

Why it matters

Fire-treated means soaked with chemicals that slow fire. Some treatments used in the 1980s broke down in hot attics. The wood turned weak and brittle. In the worst cases, this took only 3 to 8 years. In many cases, the roof boards and roofing had to be torn off and replaced. A weak roof deck can be unsafe to walk on. HUD said in 1999 that most of the bad material had been replaced. It still matters if your roof deck is original.

When this applies

About 1979 to 1990. Building codes began allowing this plywood near shared walls in 1979. The problem treatments were used during the 1980s. It was mostly used on townhouses, condos, and apartments, not detached houses.

Related guides: How to Compare Roofing Quotes Line by Line

Sources: Fire-Retardant-Treated Plywood Roof Sheathing, General Technical Report FPL-GTR-62 (June 1989) (USDA Forest Service, Forest Products Laboratory); House Document No. 27: Study of Fire Retardant Treated Plywood (1993) (Virginia Department of Housing and Community Development); The Rehab Guide, Volume 3: Roofs (March 1999) (U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (PATH))

Safe first steps

1. Walk around and photograph swollen, soft, or cracked spots.
2. Keep paint and caulk in good shape, especially at edges and nail holes.
3. Keep water off the walls. Clean gutters and aim sprinklers away.
4. Ask an inspector to name the siding type.

Who to call

A home inspector. A licensed siding contractor for repair quotes. For paint work on a pre-1978 home, a contractor certified by EPA for lead-safe work.

Ask your inspector

“Is this siding hardboard or OSB, and do you see swelling, rot, or soft spots near the ground, windows, doors, or roof lines?”

How to spot it

This siding is made of pressed wood fibers (hardboard) or glued wood chips (OSB). It is painted to look like wood. It often has a very even, stamped wood grain. Walk around the house. Look low on the walls and near the ground. Look around windows and doors, where decks attach, and where a roof meets a wall. Warning signs are swollen bottom edges and boards that wave or buckle. Also look for cracked edges, peeling layers, soft spots, and rot. A pro can tell you which type you have.

Why it matters

When water got in, some of this siding swelled, cracked, and rotted. Sometimes the wall behind it was damaged too. Some makers settled large class-action lawsuits. Those claim deadlines passed years ago. Makers said most problems came from poor installing and upkeep. Either way, good paint and caulk help keep water out.

When this applies

Class-action settlements covered siding put on from about 1980 to 1999. This kind of siding was also sold later, so age alone is not proof.

Related guides: Gutters and Downspouts: Check Where the Water Lands · A Seasonal Home Care Plan You Can Keep

Sources: The Rehab Guide, Volume 2: Exterior Walls (Aug 1999), Hardboard Siding and Engineered Wood Siding (U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (PATH)); International Paper Co. Form 10-K for fiscal 2005, Exterior Siding and Roofing Settlements (Masonite hardboard siding) (U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (EDGAR)); Louisiana-Pacific Corp. Form 10-K for fiscal 1997 (OSB siding class settlement) (U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (EDGAR)); Weyerhaeuser Co. Form 10-K for fiscal 2003 (hardboard siding class settlement) (U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (EDGAR)); The Hard Facts About Hard Board (Bulletin, May 2003) (North Carolina Real Estate Commission); Masonite Hardboard Siding Settlement (Lieff Cabraser Heimann & Bernstein (class counsel))

Safe first steps

1. Check builder records or old inspection reports to learn if it is EIFS or real stucco.
2. Photograph stains, cracks, and caulk gaps near windows, doors, decks, and roof lines.
3. Keep gutters working. Aim sprinklers away from the walls.
4. Before you buy, sell, or do big repairs, hire an EIFS-trained inspector for a moisture test.

Who to call

An EIFS-trained inspector who does moisture testing, or a structural engineer. For repairs, a contractor with EIFS experience.

Ask your inspector

“Is this wall EIFS or traditional stucco, is it a barrier or drainage type, and do you recommend a moisture test near the windows, doors, and deck joints?”

How to spot it

EIFS looks like stucco. But it is foam board with a thin coating on top. To learn which you have, check builder papers or old inspection reports. Or ask a pro. Next, look where water can get in. Check around windows and doors, and under window sills. Check where decks attach and where a roof meets a wall. Warning signs are stains or streaks under windows, cracks, bulges, soft spots, and gaps in the caulk.

Why it matters

Older barrier EIFS was meant to stop all water at the surface. It had no path to drain water that got behind it. Water got in at windows, doors, and deck joints. It could get trapped and rot the wood behind the wall, out of sight. A big fix can mean removing the cladding and repairing the wall. Many EIFS buildings have had few or no problems. In 2003, North Carolina's Real Estate Commission spoke to agents. It said current or past synthetic stucco must be disclosed to buyers. Rules in other states may differ.

When this applies

EIFS came to the U.S. in the early 1970s. The older barrier type was the norm until about the late 1990s. Newer codes call for EIFS with a drainage layer on wood-frame walls. When your area adopted that rule varies. This only matters if your home has a stucco look.

Related guides: Gutters and Downspouts: Check Where the Water Lands · What to Check Before You Sign a Home Repair Contract

Sources: The Rehab Guide, Volume 2: Exterior Walls (Aug 1999), EIFS and Stucco (U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (PATH)); 2018 International Residential Code, Section R703.9.2 EIFS With Drainage (International Code Council); 2021 IRC Chapter 7 Wall Covering, R703.9.2 (Maryland adoption) (UpCodes (reproduction of ICC code text)); The Hard Facts About Hard Board (Bulletin, May 2003) (North Carolina Real Estate Commission)

Safe first steps

1. Without touching, look for yellow tubing in easy-to-see spots.
2. Look for the bond wire and its clamp.
3. Have a licensed electrician check the bond or add one.
4. Test your smoke and CO alarms.

Who to call

A licensed electrician. In some states, a licensed gas fitter trained on CSST can check it too. Your gas company or 911 for any gas smell. One maker says all owners should talk to a lightning safety pro. The question is whether they need a lightning protection system. That maker names Florida as a high-lightning state.

Ask your inspector

“Is there yellow CSST gas tubing here, and is it bonded with a thick wire to the home's main electrical grounding, as current code and the maker's instructions call for?”

How to spot it

CSST is a bendy metal gas tube with ridges that look like rings. It has a yellow plastic coating. Without touching, look near the gas meter or propane line. Also look near the water heater, furnace, dryer, and stove. Do not move any appliance to look. Much of it may be hidden in walls or the attic. Some newer tubing is black and marked AR, short for arc-resistant. Next, look for a thick wire clamped to a solid gas pipe or fitting. It should not clamp onto the bendy tube. The wire should run to the home's main electrical grounding. A separate ground rod just for the gas line is not a proper bond. If you can't tell, ask a pro.

Why it matters

A nearby lightning strike can make electricity jump between metal parts in a house. That spark can burn a hole in thin CSST. The result can be a gas leak or fire. Bonding links the tubing to the home's electrical grounding with a thick wire. One maker says bonding may reduce the risk. It does not make a home lightning-proof. The national gas code began requiring this bond in 2009. Older installs may not have it. A New Hampshire fire marshal bulletin says the fix can take as little as 20 minutes to an hour.

Insurance note

In 2015, Delaware's insurance department urged owners of homes with yellow CSST to have a licensed electrician check the bonding.

When this applies

Only for homes with natural gas or propane. CSST has been used in U.S. homes since about 1990. It can also be added to an older home during gas work. The national gas code first called for a direct bond wire in 2009. Local adoption dates vary.

Related guides: How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire · Smoke and CO Alarms: Check Placement, Test, and Age

Sources: CodeNotes: Bonding of Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing (CSST) Gas Piping Systems (2021 IFGC/IRC) (International Code Council); Residential Safety Guide for Yellow Coated Gas Tubing (revised July 22, 2012) (New Hampshire Office of the State Fire Marshal); Yellow gas piping in your home may pose a safety risk (June 18, 2015) (Delaware Department of Insurance); Gastite Design and Installation Guide (Jan 2020), lightning warning (Titeflex / Gastite (manufacturer)); Certain Older Gas Connectors May Be Dangerous (Pub. 5135, gas-leak steps) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission)

Safe first steps

1. Ask your gas company or a licensed plumber or gas fitter to check connectors on older gas appliances.
2. Replace the connector any time you replace or move a gas appliance. CPSC advises this.

Who to call

Your gas company, a licensed plumber or gas fitter, or a qualified appliance installer.

Ask your inspector

“Are any gas appliances hooked up with an old uncoated brass connector that CPSC says should be replaced?”

How to spot it

A connector is the bendy metal tube between a gas appliance and the gas pipe. The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) says the old brass kind was used most on gas stoves, ovens, and dryers. You usually can't see those without moving the appliance. So don't look behind them. Let a pro check. The risky kind is plain brass, gold in color, with no coating. Newer ones are stainless steel or have a plastic coating.

Why it matters

CPSC warned that some old brass connectors have a flaw where the tube joins the end piece. Over time the end can pull off. That can cause a serious gas leak, fire, or explosion. CPSC linked these connectors to deaths and injuries. It is hard to tell which ones are flawed. So CPSC says to replace any uncoated brass connector right away.

When this applies

CPSC said in 2010 these had not been made for more than 30 years. Homes built before about the mid-1980s are most likely to have one. A newer home can too if an old appliance and connector were moved in.

Sources: Certain Older Gas Connectors May Be Dangerous (Pub. 5135, Sept 2010) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); CPSC Warns About Dangerous Flexible Gas Connectors Used on Home Appliances (Oct 10, 1996) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission)

Safe first steps

1. Check if your town is in the affected area.
2. Photograph any basement wall cracks. Date the photos so you can track changes.
3. If you are in the area, hire a licensed engineer for a visual check. Ask if a core test makes sense.
4. In Connecticut, ask about state help with testing and repair costs. In Connecticut, you can also ask your town assessor to reassess a home with a damaged foundation.
5. If you are buying, have the foundation checked before you close.

Who to call

A licensed professional engineer who does crumbling-foundation checks. In Connecticut, use a CT-licensed engineer to qualify for state testing help. A lab for a core test. In Connecticut, CFSIC, a state-created company that helps pay for foundation repair. A real estate attorney if you are buying or selling.

Ask your inspector

“Is this house in the pyrrhotite area, and do the foundation walls show cracks that call for an engineer's visual check or a core test?”

How to spot it

First, check your location. Connecticut's testing help covers homes within 20 miles of a concrete company in Stafford Springs, CT. Nearby towns in central Massachusetts are also at risk. Then look at your concrete basement walls with a flashlight. Warning signs are cracks, bulging, or crumbling concrete. Damage can take decades to show. Some homes with the mineral show no signs yet. An engineer's visual check can link cracks to the mineral. A lab test of a small plug of concrete, called a core test, can find it even before cracks show.

Why it matters

The mineral is called pyrrhotite. When it meets water and air, it swells and cracks the concrete. Over time the walls can crack and crumble. Some damaged homes have been ruled unsafe to live in. The usual fix is to lift the house and pour a new foundation. The GAO, a federal watchdog agency, says this fix is costly. GAO also says insurers have largely denied these claims.

Insurance note

GAO says insurers have largely denied crumbling-foundation claims. In Connecticut, the state housing department says insurers cannot cancel or refuse to renew a policy because of a crumbling foundation.

When this applies

For parts of northeastern Connecticut and central Massachusetts. The concern is foundations poured from 1983 to 2015. An older home counts only if an addition's foundation was poured in those years.

Related guides: What to Check Before You Sign a Home Repair Contract · Home Repair Loans: Compare the Full Cost

Sources: Crumbling Foundations (Connecticut Department of Housing); Crumbling Foundations: Extent of Homes with Defective Concrete Is Not Fully Known (GAO-20-649, July 2020) (U.S. Government Accountability Office); Pyrrhotite Distribution in the Conterminous United States, 2020 (Fact Sheet 2020-3017) (U.S. Geological Survey); Connecticut Foundation Solutions Indemnity Company (CFSIC) (CFSIC (captive insurer created under Connecticut law)); Pyrrhotite and Crumbling Foundations (UMass Amherst, Massachusetts Geological Survey)

Safe first steps

1. Look from the crawl space opening for bolts, plates, and plywood bracing.
2. See if your ZIP code is in California's Earthquake Brace + Bolt program. It has offered grants to help pay for a retrofit. Sign-up opens for a limited time each year.
3. Get an assessment from a contractor in the program's directory.
4. Make sure your water heater is strapped. The program requires that too.

Who to call

A contractor from the Earthquake Brace + Bolt directory. They are California-licensed general contractors with FEMA retrofit training. For a complex house, a structural engineer.

Ask your inspector

“Is this house bolted to its foundation, and are the crawl space walls braced?”

How to spot it

A raised foundation leaves a crawl space under the floor. Some homes have short wood walls there, called cripple walls. From the crawl space opening, use a flashlight. Look at the wood board resting on top of the concrete foundation. Bolt heads or metal plates tying the wood to the concrete are a good sign. Plywood panels nailed to the short walls mean they are braced. If you see neither, the house may need a retrofit. A trained contractor can tell you for sure.

Why it matters

In a strong earthquake, a house that is not bolted down can slide off its foundation. Short walls that are not braced can collapse. Then the house can drop. FEMA names these as weak spots in older wood houses. A retrofit bolts the house to the foundation. It also braces the short walls with plywood.

Insurance note

Do you have a California Earthquake Authority policy? A qualifying retrofit on a pre-1980 wood-frame home may earn a premium discount. Ask your insurer what proof it needs.

When this applies

California retrofit programs target wood-frame homes built before 1980 on a raised foundation with a crawl space. A later home is less likely to need this.

Related guides: How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire · What to Check Before You Sign a Home Repair Contract

Sources: Earthquake Brace + Bolt (EBB) Retrofit (California Residential Mitigation Program (CEA and Cal OES program)); Cripple Wall Retrofit: Seismic Retrofit of Wood-Frame Cripple Walls (Federal Emergency Management Agency); How to Qualify for an Earthquake Insurance Premium Discount (California Earthquake Authority)

Safe first steps

Write down the tank's age. Check around it for leaks, rust, and water on the floor. Keep gasoline and other flammable liquids out of that room. If the tank is about 10 or more years old, start planning a replacement.

Who to call

A licensed plumber. For a gas water heater, one qualified to work on gas.

Ask your inspector

“What is the manufacture date on the water heater, and does it have a relief valve with a proper discharge pipe?”

How to spot it

Find the label on the tank. It shows the brand and serial number. Sometimes it also shows the date it was made. If not, the serial number can often be decoded to find the date. Look for rust, leaks, rusty hot water, or rumbling sounds. Near the top, look for a relief valve. This safety valve lets out water if heat or pressure gets too high. It should have a pipe running down toward the floor.

Why it matters

Old tanks can leak and cause water damage. ENERGY STAR says to consider replacing one more than 10 years old before it becomes an emergency. A 2007 home builders' study put tank life at about 10 years. On older gas tanks, fumes from gasoline stored nearby can catch fire. In 2003, CPSC reported nearly 800 such home fires a year.

Insurance note

Florida: Citizens requires a 4-point inspection when you apply for coverage on a property more than 20 years old. The form asks the water heater's age and whether it has a relief valve. Other insurers set their own rules.

When this applies

Any home with a tank water heater. This goes by the water heater's age, not the house's. Gas tanks of 30, 40, or 50 gallons made before July 1, 2003 came before a safer design that resists lighting nearby fumes.

Related guides: Water Heater Leaking? Stay Safe and Call for Help

Sources: When Should You Replace Your Water Heater? (ENERGY STAR (U.S. EPA and DOE)); Study of Life Expectancy of Home Components (February 2007) (National Association of Home Builders / Bank of America Home Equity (third-party-hosted copy)); New Technology in Gas Water Heaters Can Save Lives (2003 news release) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Inspections (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); 4-Point Inspection Form (Insp4pt 03 25, sample form) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation)

Safe first steps

Take a photo of the nameplate. Change the filter as the manual says. Keep plants and debris clear of the outdoor unit. Have it serviced by a licensed HVAC company. If it is over 10 years old, start planning a replacement.

Who to call

A licensed HVAC contractor. Its technicians should hold EPA refrigerant certification (called Section 608).

Ask your inspector

“What date and refrigerant type are on the outdoor unit's nameplate, and when was the system last serviced?”

How to spot it

Find the metal nameplate on the outdoor unit. It lists the model and serial number and may show the date it was made. It usually lists the refrigerant, such as R-22 or R-410A. Refrigerant is the fluid that moves heat out of your home.

Why it matters

ENERGY STAR says to consider replacing a heat pump or central AC more than 10 years old. A 2007 home builders' study put AC life at about 10 to 15 years. It put heat pumps at about 16. No new R-22 has been made or imported in the U.S. since January 1, 2020. Cleaned-up used R-22 is still sold for repairs. EPA does not require you to replace an R-22 system.

Insurance note

Florida: Citizens requires a 4-point inspection when you apply for coverage on a property more than 20 years old. The form asks the heating and cooling system's age and last service date. It also needs photos of the dated nameplate. Other insurers set their own rules.

When this applies

Any home with central AC or a heat pump. This goes by the outdoor unit's age, not the house's. Many older units use R-22, an older refrigerant. Some newer replacement outdoor units do too. The nameplate tells you which one it has.

Related guides: AC Not Cooling? Safe Checks Before the Service Call · HVAC Filters: Check Size, Arrow, and Fit

Sources: Heating and cooling: signs it may be time to replace (ENERGY STAR (U.S. EPA and DOE)); Study of Life Expectancy of Home Components (February 2007) (National Association of Home Builders / Bank of America Home Equity (third-party-hosted copy)); Homeowners and Consumers: Frequently Asked Questions (HCFC-22 phaseout) (U.S. Environmental Protection Agency); Purchasing and Repairing Home Air Conditioners or Heat Pumps (U.S. Environmental Protection Agency); Inspections (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); 4-Point Inspection Form (Insp4pt 03 25, sample form) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation)

Safe first steps

Have a licensed professional inspect and service it once a year. Make sure you have working CO alarms. Keep anything that can burn at least 3 feet away from the furnace. Change the filter as the manual says. If it is over 15 years old, start planning a replacement.

Who to call

A licensed HVAC technician qualified for gas or oil equipment.

Ask your inspector

“How old is the furnace or boiler, when was it last serviced, and is its vent pipe in good shape?”

How to spot it

Look for a label or service sticker on the outside of the unit. It may show the model, serial number, or date. If the label is behind a panel, ask your HVAC technician to read it. Look for the date of the last service, too.

Why it matters

ENERGY STAR says to consider replacing a furnace or boiler more than 15 years old. A 2007 home builders' study put furnace life at about 15 to 20 years. A gas, oil, or propane unit that isn't working right can give off carbon monoxide (CO). CO is a poison gas.

Insurance note

Florida: Citizens requires a 4-point inspection when you apply for coverage on a property more than 20 years old. The form asks the heating and cooling system's age and last service date. Other insurers set their own rules.

When this applies

Any home with a furnace or boiler. This goes by the unit's age, not the house's. Gas, oil, or propane units need a yearly inspection at any age.

Related guides: No Heat? Check These 6 Things Before You Call · HVAC Filters: Check Size, Arrow, and Fit

Sources: Heating and cooling: signs it may be time to replace (ENERGY STAR (U.S. EPA and DOE)); Study of Life Expectancy of Home Components (February 2007) (National Association of Home Builders / Bank of America Home Equity (third-party-hosted copy)); Educational Messages Desk Reference, 2026 edition (sections 3.6.1, 10.6.1-10.6.3) (National Fire Protection Association (NFPA)); Inspections (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); 4-Point Inspection Form (Insp4pt 03 25, sample form) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation)

Safe first steps

Check it now and then for torn covers, crumbling, or pieces on the floor. Keep storage, kids, and pets away from damaged wrap. Tell any plumber or heating tech about it before they start. Have damaged wrap tested. Also test any wrap a job will disturb. The federal product-safety agency (CPSC) says even minor repairs should be done by pros.

Who to call

A trained asbestos inspector to take samples. A licensed asbestos abatement contractor (a company trained to repair or remove asbestos) to repair or remove it. In Florida, testing must be done by or under a state-licensed asbestos consultant. Removal needs a state-licensed asbestos contractor, with a few exceptions. Your heating or plumbing contractor should know about it before work starts.

Ask your inspector

“Could the insulation on these pipes, ducts, boiler, or furnace be asbestos, and is any of it damaged?”

How to spot it

Look but don't touch. Check basements and utility closets. For crawl spaces and attics, look from the door or hatch. Don't crawl in. Look for white or gray chalky wrap on hot water or steam pipes. It may be wrapped in a thin cloth cover. Some wrap looks like gray corrugated cardboard on pipes or ducts. Old furnaces and boilers may have white or gray chalky cement. Old ducts may have paper wrap, paper tape, or pleated 'accordion' connectors. Old oil and coal furnaces may have door seals (gaskets) with asbestos.

Why it matters

This kind of asbestos is often crumbly. Crumbly material is called friable. It releases fibers easily when bumped, torn, or worn with age. Furnace, boiler, plumbing, and AC jobs can disturb it. It can add surprise cost to a repair or flip.

When this applies

New Jersey's health department says pipe wrap was used most from about 1920 to the mid-1970s. OSHA, the federal worker-safety agency, treats pipe, boiler, and duct insulation in buildings built through 1980 as asbestos until tested. New Jersey also says furnace door seals with asbestos were made until the early 1980s. Homes built after about the mid-1980s are less likely to have these parts.

Related guides: How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: Asbestos in the Home (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Asbestos: A Guide for New Jersey Residents (New Jersey Department of Health); A Consumer's Guide to Asbestos (California Contractors State License Board); 29 CFR 1926.1101, Asbestos (construction standard) (OSHA); Learn About Asbestos (U.S. EPA); Florida Statutes s. 469.001, Definitions (2026) (Florida Senate); Florida Statutes s. 469.003, License required (2026) (Florida Senate); Florida Statutes s. 469.004, License; asbestos consultant; asbestos contractor (2026) (Florida Senate)

Safe first steps

Leave intact cement sheets alone. They don't shed easily unless sawn, scraped, sanded, or crushed. Touch old stove seals as little as possible. Have a pro replace worn seals on older stoves. Leave old fake embers alone. Ask a pro before removing an old stove or gas-log set.

Who to call

A chimney or stove pro trained in asbestos handling. A licensed gas fireplace or appliance technician for gas-log sets. A trained asbestos inspector if parts must come out.

Ask your inspector

“Could the heat shield, door seals, or fake embers on this stove or fireplace contain asbestos, and should they be tested before we replace anything?”

How to spot it

Look but don't touch. Check the wall or floor around a wood stove. Look for gray or white cement sheets, soft board (called millboard), or paper. Check the rope-like door seals (gaskets) on wood or coal stoves. Check an old gas-log fireplace for fake ash or glowing 'embers.' Only a lab test can tell for sure.

Why it matters

California's contractor board says stove door seals wear out with normal use. As they wear, they can release fibers. Millboard is crumbly, so it sheds fibers more easily than cement sheet. Removing or replacing an old stove, insert, or gas-log set can disturb these parts.

When this applies

New Jersey's health department says stove door seals with asbestos were made from about 1940 to the early 1980s. EPA, the federal environmental agency, found asbestos millboard was still made in 1992. CPSC, the federal product-safety agency, banned asbestos fake fireplace embers in December 1977. A stove can be older than the house, so go by the age of the stove.

Sources: Asbestos in the Home (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission); Learn About Asbestos (U.S. EPA); Asbestos: A Guide for New Jersey Residents (New Jersey Department of Health); A Consumer's Guide to Asbestos (California Contractors State License Board); 16 CFR Part 1305, Ban of artificial emberizing materials (ash and embers) containing respirable free-form asbestos (CPSC regulation (eCFR)); Asbestos; Manufacture, Importation, Processing and Distribution Prohibitions (58 FR 58964, Nov. 5, 1993) (U.S. EPA via Federal Register)

Safe first steps

1. Gather proof of updates. Look for permits or bills for roof, panel, pipe, water heater, or AC work. Note the year of each.
2. Read the AC and water heater labels for their ages. Do not open anything.
3. Have licensed pros fix known leaks or hazards first.
4. Book the 4-point before you shop for insurance. Keep a copy.

Who to call

A Florida-licensed home inspector. Citizens also accepts a licensed general, building, or residential contractor. A building code inspector or official, an architect, or an engineer can also do it. Ask your insurance agent what your insurer needs.

Ask your inspector

“Is anything on this 4-point likely to stop my insurer from writing the policy, and what repair or paperwork would fix it?”

How to spot it

Your agent or insurance application asks for a "4-point." It is not a full home inspection. A Florida-licensed pro looks at four things. They are the roof, electrical, plumbing, and heating and cooling. The pro takes photos and signs the form. Citizens, Florida's state-created insurer, requires one on applications for homes over 20 years old. The report must be less than a year old.

Why it matters

Insurers use the 4-point to decide whether to insure the home. Citizens says to fix serious problems before you apply. Examples are exposed wiring or active leaks. Its form says agents may not submit homes with hazards. Other insurers set their own age rules. For buyers, a poor report can delay getting a policy.

Insurance note

Citizens requires a 4-point on applications for homes more than 20 years old. The age was 30 before Feb. 1, 2022. The report must be from the past year. It does not apply to tenant or condo policies. Citizens relies on its sample form or a similar one. Other insurers set their own age rules, so ask your agent. Citizens rules last checked Sept. 2026.

When this applies

Citizens requires a 4-point when a home is more than 20 years old. Other insurers set their own ages.

Related guides: Florida 4-Point Inspection: What It Covers, Who Needs It, How to Prepare

Sources: Insurance Inspections (4-point, roof, wind mitigation) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); FAQ 1394: Four-point inspection requirements (updated 02/18/2026) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); 2022 rates and rules changes, including 4-point required for 20-year buildings (bulletin 12/03/2021) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); 4-Point Inspection Form (Sample Form Insp4pt 03 25) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); Florida Binding Guidelines (10-24-18 edition), example of one insurer's 4-point age rule; may be outdated (Universal Property & Casualty Insurance Company)

Safe first steps

1. Find any past 4-point, inspection, or electrician paperwork.
2. Ask your agent what your insurer accepts.
3. If there is a flag, get quotes from a Florida-licensed electrician.
4. Citizens accepts only three fixes for single-strand aluminum. They are a full copper rewire, COPALUM crimps, or AlumiConn connectors.
5. Keep the electrician's signed paperwork. For aluminum wiring fixes, Citizens requires it.

Who to call

A Florida-licensed electrical contractor for repairs. A licensed home inspector for the 4-point. Your insurance agent, to confirm what your insurer accepts. Call 911 for smoke, sparks, or flames.

Ask your inspector

“Will my panel brand, amps, or wiring type show up as a problem on the 4-point, and what repair proof will my insurer need?”

How to spot it

Start with paperwork. Check an old 4-point, the seller's disclosure, or electrician bills. They may list the panel brand, amps, and wire type. Some insurers flag Federal Pacific (FPE or Stab-Lok), Zinsco, Sylvania-Zinsco, and Challenger-Zinsco panels. Fuse boxes can be a flag too. If a brand name shows on the outside of the panel, write it down. Otherwise, let the inspector check. The 4-point needs photos with the panel cover off. Only a pro should do that.

Why it matters

The Citizens 4-point asks about cloth wiring and knob-and-tube wiring. Knob-and-tube is very old wiring held by ceramic knobs and tubes. The form also asks about aluminum wiring. It lists hazards like scorching, loose wires, and double taps. A double tap is two wires under a screw made for one. Citizens will not accept single-strand aluminum branch wiring unless it was fixed an approved way. New Citizens policies need at least 100-amp service. Amps measure how much power the panel can supply. Some private insurers refuse certain panel brands and fuse boxes. You may need a new panel before you can get coverage.

Insurance note

Citizens will not accept single-strand aluminum branch wiring. Branch wiring is the wire that runs to outlets and lights. It is OK if the home was fully rewired in copper. It is also OK if every connection was fixed with COPALUM crimps or AlumiConn connectors. Citizens does not accept Leviton products for this repair. Multi-strand aluminum is OK. A licensed electrician must certify the repair papers. New policies and rewrites need at least 100 amps. Policies in effect before Sept. 1, 2012 may keep the older 60-amp minimum. We found no public Citizens rule naming panel brands. Private insurers vary; one insurer's 2018 guide said no fuses and no Federal Pacific or Zinsco boxes. Citizens rules last checked Sept. 2026.

When this applies

Shown for homes old enough to need a Citizens 4-point, which is more than 20 years old. See the national electrical items for when each panel and wire type was used.

Related guides: Florida 4-Point Inspection: What It Covers, Who Needs It, How to Prepare · Federal Pacific Stab-Lok or Zinsco Panel? Check the Label and the Record · Breaker Keeps Tripping? Stop and Get the Cause Checked · Warm, Buzzing, or Scorched Outlet? Stop Using It

Sources: 4-Point Inspection Form (Sample Form Insp4pt 03 25), electrical section (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); FAQ 1550: Aluminum wiring (updated 04/16/2026) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); FAQ 2865: Minimum amperage requirement (updated 08/25/2026) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); Florida Binding Guidelines (10-24-18 edition), example of one insurer's panel, fuse, and wiring rules; may be outdated (Universal Property & Casualty Insurance Company)

Safe first steps

1. Find re-pipe papers and the water heater's install year.
2. Have a licensed plumber fix any leak now. Keep the bill.
3. If you may have polybutylene, get a re-pipe quote before you shop for insurance.
4. Buyers: ask the seller for the plumbing history.

Who to call

A licensed plumber for leaks and re-piping. A Florida-licensed home inspector for the 4-point. Your insurance agent.

Ask your inspector

“What pipe types did you find, and will polybutylene, a leak, or the water heater stop my insurer from writing the policy?”

How to spot it

Look for a re-pipe permit or bill first. Then look under sinks and near the water heater. Do not move, cut, or take apart any pipes. Only a plumber or inspector can confirm polybutylene. Color alone does not prove it. Read the water heater label for its age. Look for drips, rust, stains, or soft floors. Check near sinks, toilets, the water heater, and the AC drain line.

Why it matters

Polybutylene is a plastic water pipe found in some older homes. Citizens will not write new policies on homes over 20 years old that have it. Active leaks, unrepaired water damage, and plumbing in poor shape also make a home not eligible with Citizens. The 4-point asks the pipe type and whether the home was re-piped. It asks the water heater's age. It also needs a photo of the water heater's relief valve. That is a safety valve on the tank. Some private insurers refuse polybutylene too.

Insurance note

Citizens: new policies on homes more than 20 years old with polybutylene are not insurable on its main home, rental dwelling, and mobile home policy forms (HO-3, HO-8, DP-1, DP-3, MHO-3, MDP-1). Homes 20 years old or newer with polybutylene may be eligible if there are no leaks, damage, or hazards. Since March 2025, the 4-point needs a photo of the water heater's relief valve. We found no state or Citizens rule setting a top water heater age. Some private insurers also refuse polybutylene. Citizens rules last checked Sept. 2026.

When this applies

Citizens' polybutylene rule applies to homes more than 20 years old. Leak and water heater checks apply to any home on a 4-point. See the national plumbing item for when polybutylene was used.

Related guides: Florida 4-Point Inspection: What It Covers, Who Needs It, How to Prepare · Polybutylene Pipe: How to Spot the Gray Plastic and Plan a Re-Pipe · Hidden Leak? Try a Two-Hour Water-Meter Check · Water Heater Leaking? Stay Safe and Call for Help

Sources: FAQ 1713: Polybutylene piping (updated 01/26/2026) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); FAQ 1360: Plumbing inspection and ineligible plumbing conditions (updated 02/25/2026) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); 4-Point Inspection Form (Sample Form Insp4pt 03 25), plumbing section (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); Roof and 4-Point Inspection Form Updates (bulletin 03/20/2025) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); Florida Binding Guidelines (10-24-18 edition), example of one insurer's polybutylene rule; may be outdated (Universal Property & Casualty Insurance Company)

Safe first steps

1. Find the roof permit date and roof type.
2. If your insurer wants a 15+ year roof replaced, ask for an inspection first.
3. Get the years of life left in writing. Include photos of each roof slope.
4. Check your policy for a separate roof deductible.
5. If a nonrenewal notice comes, read the reason. Call your agent right away.

Who to call

An inspector your insurer approves. The law allows a licensed home inspector, building code inspector, contractor, roofer, engineer, or architect. A licensed roofing contractor for quotes. Your insurance agent.

Ask your inspector

“How many years of useful life does my roof have left, and will you put that in writing on a form my insurer accepts?”

How to spot it

Search your city or county's online permit records for the last full re-roof. Also check closing papers, the seller's disclosure, or roofer bills. From the ground, look for curled or missing shingles or cracked tiles. Look for shingle grit piling up at downspouts. Inside, look for ceiling stains. Florida law counts roof age from the last full replacement. A small patch does not reset it. If the roof was redone in parts until all of it was new, age counts from the first part.

Why it matters

Florida law limits how insurers use roof age on homeowners policies. It does not cover mobile home policies, and it may not cover landlord policies. Insurers may not refuse to sell or renew a policy just because the roof is under 15 years old. For roofs 15 or older, you can get an inspection first, at your cost. If it shows 5 or more years of life left, they may not refuse for age alone. Insurers can still say no for roof condition or other lawful reasons. Citizens has its own roof-age limits. Some policies also have a separate roof deductible.

Insurance note

Florida law (section 627.7011(5)) covers homeowners policies issued or renewed on or after July 1, 2022. It does not apply to mobile home policies. Citizens rules: shingle roofs over 25 years old need proof. So do tile, slate, clay, concrete, or metal roofs over 50 years old. The proof is 5+ years of life left or a full replacement. Citizens accepts its roof form. It also accepts the 4-point roof section with photos of each slope. Separate roof deductible (section 627.701(10)): it can be no more than 2% of dwelling coverage or half the roof replacement cost, whichever is less. It applies only to replacement-cost claims. It does not apply to total losses or hurricane roof losses. It does not apply when a tree or other hazard punctures the roof deck, the boards under the roof. It does not apply to repairs under half the roof. Until you show you paid it, the insurer may pay the roof part at actual cash value. That is the value after wear is subtracted. The law lets you reject this deductible on an approved form. For most nonrenewals, insurers must give 120 days' written notice with the reason (section 627.4133(2)(b)). Citizens rules last checked Sept. 2026.

When this applies

Any Florida home. Roof age counts from the last full roof replacement, not the year the house was built.

Related guides: How to Compare Roofing Quotes Line by Line · Roofing Contractor Red Flags: 7 Checks Before You Sign

Sources: 2026 Florida Statutes s. 627.7011 (roof age, subsection (5); scope limits, subsection (6); roof deductible payment, (3)(a)) (The Florida Senate); 2026 Florida Statutes s. 627.701 (separate roof deductible, subsection (10)) (The Florida Senate); 2026 Florida Statutes s. 627.4133 (120-day nonrenewal notice, subsection (2)(b)) (The Florida Senate); FAQ 2513: Roof age documentation (updated 03/17/2026) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); Insurance Inspections (roof inspections) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); 4-Point Inspection Form (Sample Form Insp4pt 03 25), roof section note on replacing the Roof Inspection Form (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); Property Insurance Changes (SB 2-D roof-age summary) (Florida Department of Financial Services, Office of the Insurance Consumer Advocate)

Safe first steps

1. Gather your roof permit, window and door papers, shutter bills, and any old wind form.
2. Hire an authorized inspector. Send the finished form to your insurer.
3. Ask your insurer how your credits changed.
4. After a new roof, windows, or shutters, get a new form.

Who to call

An authorized mitigation inspector. That includes a licensed home inspector with hurricane training or a certified building code inspector. A licensed general, building, or residential contractor can also sign. So can an engineer or architect.

Ask your inspector

“Which answers on my wind form are keeping my discount lowest, and which one upgrade would change the form the most?”

How to spot it

Ask your agent if a wind mitigation form is on file. The state form is OIR-B1-1802. Look for wind or hurricane credits on your policy papers. The form asks about the roof covering and the roof shape. It asks how the roof deck, the boards under the roof, is nailed. It asks how the roof ties to the walls. It asks about a sealed roof deck. That is an extra layer that keeps water out if shingles blow off. It asks about storm protection for windows and doors. A hip roof slopes down on all four sides. A FORTIFIED roof certificate, from a stronger-roof program, can back up some answers.

Why it matters

Florida law makes insurers include discounts for wind-resistant features. A signed form shows which features you have. Citizens says some roof credits can come from year built alone. Credits for window and door protection need the form. At Citizens, discounts apply only to the wind part of your premium. A new state form took effect April 1, 2026. A form is good for up to 5 years if the house has no major changes. If your form is older, ask your agent if it is still accepted.

Insurance note

Under Florida law (section 627.0629(1)), rate filings must include discounts for wind-loss features, including features that meet the Florida Building Code. Since Oct. 1, 2023, insurers must describe these discounts on their websites. Section 627.711 says insurers must send a discount notice at issue and each renewal. They must accept forms signed by authorized inspectors. An insurer may have your form checked or your home reinspected, at its own cost. A knowingly false form used to get a discount is a first-degree misdemeanor (section 627.711(8)). Citizens does not offer these discounts on mobile homes. Savings vary by insurer and location.

When this applies

Any Florida home. Homes permitted under the Florida Building Code, after about March 1, 2002, can check the code box. Older homes get credit for features the inspector verifies.

Related guides: Florida Wind Inspection Checklist: The 2026 Form · Hurricane Screens or Shutters: Which Fits Your Home?

Sources: 2026 Florida Statutes s. 627.0629 (discounts required in rate filings, subsection (1)) (The Florida Senate); 2026 Florida Statutes s. 627.711 (uniform mitigation form, approved inspectors and direct employees (3), penalty (8), independent verification (9)) (The Florida Senate); Uniform Mitigation Verification Inspection Form OIR-B1-1802 (Rev. 04/26) (Florida Office of Insurance Regulation); Wind Mitigation Resources (form effective April 1, 2026) (Florida Office of Insurance Regulation); FAQ 3534: Wind mitigation credits by year built vs. inspection form (updated 02/25/2026) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); FAQ 2516: Wind mitigation discounts (updated 09/22/2026) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation)

Safe first steps

1. Look up the year built and the permit application date.
2. If your home is older, get a wind mitigation inspection. It shows which features you have. It also shows which upgrades could help.
3. If your home was built before 2008, look into My Safe Florida Home grants.

Who to call

Your city or county building department, for permit records. A wind mitigation inspector.

Ask your inspector

“Based on my permit date, which building code box will you check on my wind form, and what proof do you need from me?”

How to spot it

Find the year built on your county property appraiser's website. If it says 2002 or 2003, you also need the permit application date. Your city or county building department has it. The permit date, not the year built, decides which code applies. In Miami-Dade and Broward, homes built from 1994 to 1996 need the permit date too.

Why it matters

Florida lawmakers found the statewide code helped cut hurricane damage. They also found weak spots in some homes built before it. The first question on the wind form asks which code the home was permitted under. Florida requires insurers to give credits for features that meet the code. The amount varies by insurer. Older homes can still earn credits for upgrades an inspector verifies.

Insurance note

On the state wind form, homes built in 2002 or 2003 need a permit application dated after March 1, 2002 to check the Florida Building Code box. Miami-Dade and Broward homes have a separate box for the 1994 South Florida Building Code. For homes built there from 1994 to 1996, the permit must be dated after Sept. 1, 1994. section 627.0629(1) requires rate credits for features that meet the code. Amounts vary by insurer.

When this applies

Homes built before about 2002 predate the statewide code. For homes built in 2002 or 2003, the permit application date decides.

Related guides: Florida Wind Inspection Checklist: The 2026 Form

Sources: Effective dates of Florida Building Codes and supplements (Florida Building Commission (DBPR)); 2026 Florida Statutes s. 553.844 (legislative findings, subsection (1)(a)) (The Florida Senate); Uniform Mitigation Verification Inspection Form OIR-B1-1802 (Rev. 04/26), question 1 building code (Florida Office of Insurance Regulation); 2026 Florida Statutes s. 627.0629 (credits for features meeting the Florida Building Code) (The Florida Senate)

Safe first steps

1. Find your roof permit date and roof type.
2. Check your policy for law and ordinance coverage.
3. After a storm, take photos of damage from the ground.
4. Call your insurer and a licensed roofer.
5. Make sure repairs have a permit.

Who to call

A licensed roofing contractor. Your local building department. Your insurance agent, to review law and ordinance coverage.

Ask your inspector

“Was my roof built or replaced to the 2007 Florida Building Code or later, so only repaired parts would need to meet current code?”

How to spot it

Find the last full re-roof permit date in your building department's online records. Roofs built or replaced to the 2007 Florida Building Code or later get an exception. That code took effect March 1, 2009. If your roof is older, or the date is unknown, the rule may apply. Ask a licensed roofer or the building department.

Why it matters

The building code limits repairs on older roofs. You may repair no more than 25% of a roof or section in 12 months. Past that, the covering on the whole roof or section must meet current code. So storm damage to part of an older roof can become a much bigger job. For roofs built to the 2007 code or later, only the repaired part must meet current code. Law and ordinance coverage helps pay extra costs to meet code. But Florida law limits it to the damaged part, unless total damage is over half the cost to rebuild the home.

Insurance note

Law and ordinance coverage pays extra costs to meet building codes. Unless you reject it in writing, a Florida homeowners policy includes it at 25% of the dwelling limit. Insurers must also offer 50%. By law it covers only repairs to the damaged part, unless total damage is over 50% of the home's replacement cost. Whether a claim pays for undamaged roof areas depends on your policy and claim. Local governments may not change the 2007-code exception.

When this applies

Applies to roofs built or last fully replaced before the 2007 Florida Building Code took effect on March 1, 2009. An older home with a newer roof may get the exception.

Related guides: Roof Insurance Claims: Safe Steps After a Storm · Storm Chaser Roofers: What to Check Before You Sign

Sources: 2026 Florida Statutes s. 553.844 (2007-code roof exception, subsection (5)) (The Florida Senate); 2023 Florida Building Code, Existing Building, 8th ed., s. 706.1.1 (25% roof rule) (UpCodes (reproduction of the Florida Building Code)); Property Insurance Changes (SB 4-D roof exception summary) (Florida Department of Financial Services, Office of the Insurance Consumer Advocate); Effective dates of Florida Building Codes and supplements (Florida Building Commission (DBPR)); 2026 Florida Statutes s. 627.7011 (law and ordinance coverage, subsections (1)-(2)) (The Florida Senate)

Safe first steps

1. Confirm your permit date before you get roof quotes.
2. Ask each roofer to list the water barrier and deck nailing in the quote.
3. Ask if roof-to-wall ties apply to your home.
4. Make sure the job has a permit.
5. After the job, get a new wind mitigation inspection.

Who to call

A licensed roofing contractor. Your local building department, to ask about your wind zone. A wind mitigation inspector after the job.

Ask your inspector

“Does my re-roof need the code's water barrier, deck nailing, and roof-to-wall ties, and does the quote include them?”

How to spot it

Check the year built and the permit date. The rule is for site-built single-family homes permitted before March 1, 2002. It applies when the roof covering is torn off and replaced on a wood roof deck. Ask each roofer if the quote includes the required upgrades.

Why it matters

Florida law usually requires two upgrades when these older homes get a new roof. One is a secondary water barrier. It helps keep water out if the roof covering blows off. The other is stronger nailing of the roof deck, the boards under the roof covering. Some homes must also add roof-to-wall ties at gable ends or corners. This applies only in the wind-borne debris region, a code zone for flying storm debris. The home must also be insured for $300,000 or more. If there is no insurance or no proof of its value, the tax value counts instead. Even then, ties are needed only if the work can be done for 15% of the re-roof cost. These features are also on the wind mitigation form. They may earn insurance credits.

Insurance note

These upgrades match questions on the state wind form: roof deck attachment, roof-to-wall attachment, and sealed roof deck (secondary water resistance). Credits vary by insurer.

When this applies

Applies to site-built single-family homes permitted before the Florida Building Code took effect March 1, 2002. Homes finished in 2002 or 2003 can fall on either side; the permit date decides.

Related guides: How to Compare Roofing Quotes Line by Line · Florida Wind Inspection Checklist: The 2026 Form

Sources: 2026 Florida Statutes s. 553.844 (re-roof mitigation for pre-code site-built single-family homes, subsections (2)(b) and (3)(a)-(b)) (The Florida Senate); 2023 Florida Building Code, Existing Building, 8th ed., s. 706.7-706.8 (re-roof mitigation) (UpCodes (reproduction of the Florida Building Code)); Uniform Mitigation Verification Inspection Form OIR-B1-1802 (Rev. 04/26) (Florida Office of Insurance Regulation)

Safe first steps

1. Make an account at mysafeflhome.com and answer the questions.
2. Get the free inspection.
3. Apply for a grant within 24 months of that inspection. Name a licensed contractor.
4. Wait for the official approval notice.
5. Finish the work and ask for a final inspection within 18 months of approval. Matching grants are paid after the work is done.

Who to call

The My Safe Florida Home program, through mysafeflhome.com. A Florida-licensed contractor who pulls permits.

Ask your inspector

“Which upgrades on my report could qualify for a grant and change my wind mitigation form the most?”

How to spot it

Check your county property appraiser's website. You need a homestead exemption. For a grant, the home must also be built before Jan. 1, 2008. Apply only at the official site, mysafeflhome.com. It asks income questions to set your place in line. The program sets income groups using your county's median income. Low-income owners 60 and older go first. Next come other low-income owners, then moderate-income owners 60 and older. Then come other moderate-income owners. Higher-income owners cannot get grants. They may get a free inspection only if money is left, and they go last.

Why it matters

The free inspection lists upgrades, cost ranges, and possible insurance discounts. Eligible owners can then apply for a grant while funds last. Low-income owners can get up to $10,000 with no match. Moderate-income owners can get $2 from the state for each $1 they pay, up to $10,000. Grants can cover windows, doors, garage doors, and skylights. They can also cover roof-to-wall ties and roof-deck nailing. A secondary water barrier with a new roof covering can count too. For a grant, the home must be insured for $700,000 or less.

Insurance note

Grant recipients must share the discount details their insurer gives them after the work. Discounts vary by insurer. The program runs only while the Legislature funds it. When we checked in Sept. 2026, the program site said it was accepting applications.

When this applies

Grants are only for homes built before Jan. 1, 2008. The free inspection has no build-year limit. Both need a homesteaded, owner-occupied, site-built home. That can be a detached house, or a townhouse up to three stories on its own lot. Townhouse owners should ask the program which grant items apply.

Related guides: My Safe Florida Home Grants: Wait for Approval Before Work · How to Check a Contractor's License Before You Hire

Sources: 2026 Florida Statutes s. 215.5586 (My Safe Florida Home Program) (The Florida Senate); My Safe Florida Home FAQs (My Safe Florida Home (Florida Department of Financial Services)); Is funding currently available? (support article) (My Safe Florida Home Support Center); 2025 Program Update Flyer (prioritization groups, county median income, higher-income inspections) (My Safe Florida Home (Florida Department of Financial Services)); Property Insurance Changes (My Safe Florida Home match summary) (Florida Department of Financial Services, Office of the Insurance Consumer Advocate)

Safe first steps

1. If you have Citizens, find your renewal date.
2. Get flood quotes early from an agent. Ask about the National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP), run by the federal government. Also ask about private flood insurers.
3. Buyers: get a flood quote before you make an offer.
4. Keep proof of flood coverage with your policy papers.

Who to call

Your insurance agent, for Citizens and for flood coverage (NFIP or private).

Ask your agent

“Based on my flood zone and rebuild cost, when must I have flood insurance to keep Citizens, and how much coverage will Citizens accept?”

How to spot it

Check if your home policy is with Citizens Property Insurance. Look up your flood zone on FEMA's flood map. Find your dwelling replacement cost on your policy papers. That is the cost to rebuild, not the sale price.

Why it matters

Flood insurance is a condition of Citizens coverage. Citizens may deny coverage if you refuse to get it. The rule phased in by flood zone and by the cost to rebuild the home, not its sale price. For policies effective on or after Jan. 1, 2027, it covers all other Citizens home policies with wind coverage. Citizens may not sell flood insurance, so you must buy it elsewhere. A regular homeowners policy does not cover flood damage.

Insurance note

Under Florida law (section 627.351(6)(aa)), homes in FEMA high-risk flood zones (special flood hazard areas) need flood coverage. That started with new policies from April 1, 2023 and renewals from July 1, 2023. Other homes phase in by dwelling replacement cost (the cost to rebuild), for policies effective on or after: Jan. 1, 2024 ($600,000+), Jan. 1, 2025 ($500,000+), Jan. 1, 2026 ($400,000+), and Jan. 1, 2027 (all others). Exempt: policies without wind coverage and condo unit-owner policies. Citizens also lists tenant contents policies as exempt. Citizens asks for flood coverage at least equal to your dwelling coverage (Coverage A), or the NFIP maximum ($250,000) if lower. Citizens rules last checked Sept. 2026.

When this applies

Any Florida home insured by Citizens with wind coverage. It depends on flood zone, the cost to rebuild the home, and the policy date, not on the year the house was built.

Sources: 2026 Florida Statutes s. 627.351 (Citizens flood requirement, subsection (6)(aa)) (The Florida Senate); Flood Insurance Requirements (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); 2026 Florida Statutes s. 627.715 (Citizens may not provide flood insurance, subsection (6)) (The Florida Senate); Updates to flood coverage law bring more changes (June 1, 2023) (Citizens Property Insurance Corporation); 2026 Florida Statutes s. 627.7011 (flood not covered notice, subsection (4)(b)) (The Florida Senate); FEMA Flood Map Service Center (Federal Emergency Management Agency)