Home › Advice › Hiring Contractors › The Contractor Contract Checklist: What a Real Agreement Contains
A home improvement contract is not paperwork. It is the only version of the deal that survives a dispute. The salesperson who promised "top-of-the-line materials" and "done by Thanksgiving" may not work there in six months. What's on the page is what you bought.
Here is what a real contract contains, item by item, and what its absence tells you.
The contract should show the company's full legal name, physical address, phone number, and — where the state licenses the trade — the license number printed on the document itself.
Then verify it. Don't take the number on faith:
If the license belongs to a different company than the one on the contract, stop. That mismatch is a common setup for "renting" a license, and it usually leaves you with no recourse against the people actually doing the work.
"Replace roof" is not a scope. A real scope names the products: manufacturer, product line, color, gauge or thickness, underlayment type, fastener spec if relevant. It also states what is included around the main work — flashing, drip edge, ventilation, decking replacement terms (and the per-sheet price if rotten decking is found).
Vague scope language is where bait-and-switch lives. If the estimate said one shingle line and the contract says "or equivalent," you may get the cheapest product the supplier stocks. Cross out "or equivalent" or define exactly what equivalence means.
The contract should give a start window and a substantial-completion window, plus what happens if the contractor blows through them. Weather delays are legitimate; open-ended timelines are not. A contractor who won't commit to any window is telling you your job will be the one that slides every time a bigger job calls.
This is the single most important clause. The structure should be:
Never pay the majority of the job upfront. Prepaying is how homeowners end up financing a contractor's other jobs — or their disappearance. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau (consumerfinance.gov) also warns homeowners to be careful with contractor-arranged financing: read the loan terms independently, understand the rate and total cost, and never sign a completion certificate for the lender before the work is actually finished.
Mid-job changes are normal. What's not normal is handling them with a handshake. The contract should require that any change to scope, materials, or price be documented in a signed change order — cost stated, timeline impact stated — before the changed work begins. This protects both sides: you can't be surprise-billed, and the contractor can't be accused of unauthorized work.
In most states, subcontractors and material suppliers who don't get paid can lien your home — even if you paid the general contractor in full. The contract should require:
If a contractor has never heard of a lien release, they are either brand new or hoping you are.
Who pays for the dumpster? Who runs the magnet sweep for nails after a roof tear-off? What happens if the crew cracks a driveway with a loaded truck or crushes landscaping? Write it down. "Broom-clean condition, debris hauled, magnetic nail sweep of lawn and driveway" is one sentence that prevents a very common fight.
Two separate warranties matter, and the contract should distinguish them:
A "lifetime warranty" mentioned verbally and absent from the contract does not exist. Get the duration and coverage in the document, and ask who honors the workmanship warranty if the company changes hands.
Federal and state rules generally give you a short window to cancel certain home-solicitation contracts — commonly three business days when the sale happened at your home. The contract should state your cancellation rights and include the cancellation form. A contractor who pressures you to waive the cooling-off period or to start work immediately so the window closes is showing you how the rest of the job will go.
If it was promised, it's in the contract. If it's not in the contract, it wasn't promised. Read the whole document before signing, get a copy signed by both parties, and keep it with your payment records and lien releases until well after the warranty period ends.
And before any of this matters, confirm the license first — a contract with an unlicensed contractor may be difficult or impossible to enforce, and in some states hiring unlicensed trades can create liability for the homeowner too. Verify at FL DBPR or CA CSLB before you sign, not after.
Month-by-month checklist for your state — roof, gutters, HVAC and more. Plus license-lapse alerts for contractors you're considering.
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